hi , on lifts , I have two , same company, bought two years apart , price had doubled ( must be good) , which one , Ill leave to others . Been ok . You do need the strong sliding pan lift with the jacks on each side and some 2x12 spans cut to fit , to augment that , and two very small bottle jacks , short so collapsed height fits under car frame . Plus 3-4 +’stackable blocks cut from same 2x12 — PT wood is the better stuff . And / Or small jack stands as bottles bleed down But point of this email is electrical My barn has about 80 feet of # 8 wire out to barn service , 120/240 50 A service from house. Then 100 feet of 10/3 from garage panel to outlets where work happens,( other end of barn , of course, should have thought of this) . This 120/240 V was to allow MIG (all ok) and a mobile air compressor on 240– as well as 5-6 120 outlets from same small 30 A 3 wire panel . on that air,— some advice too, later added permanent compressor, small ones drop pressure really fast . ; I have bought old used industrial 3 phase units , twice now, ( cheap!) with like 100 gallon tanks , put “farm duty “ 240 motors on them , put smallest pulley on 1800 motor you can get ,motors usually 5 or 7.5 hp, 30A circuit ( some had 3 phase 15 hp/ 150 psi , now set for 90 ( cuts hp in half look for 150 psi , you can use the old compressor at 90 ) .Farm duty means extra high start torque ,— usually you see two capacitors on them ( farms have long wires) 100 gallons , psi stays up The Chinese lift hydraulics ( well made) have about a 1hp motor on 120 V . It is not reconnect-able for 240 V . Bad move . It would not start on 120 V ,with heavy car on it , just stalled . Start current must be 50 A+ -so long or small gauge wire = volts drop , shop lights almost went out Very few garage wiring setups with normal 20 A wiring will support that, unless within 30 40 feet of main service. Long utility service drop can hurt too . Note this has zero to do with service amp rating . It is OK once running . On an induction motor , start torque varies as square of voltage , so a drop kills you , your new lift won’t work or barely does with a 300 on it . So what I did was added a 5 kva 240/120transformer fastened to a lift post leg and a box with 4 - 120 outlets . The transformer secondary is connected 2 wire 120 v ( not three wire)— all power 5 kva is on two wires This transformer has a 240 V cord / plug ( goes into the MIG 240 V socket , in my case a 30 A 240 V twistlock ) 12/3 rubber cord . (be sure to keep green safety ground) Lift now runs great ( % drop on 240 is one quarter of 120 , same wires) )!!— and I have a very HD 120 V supply right on post . ( like 40 A at 120 ) so all the power tools are super happy . ( grinder etc ) 30 A 240 v mig breaker provides short circuit protection to all of it . Just a heads up ! YMMV john On Jul 3, 2025, at 6:45 AM, 'John W Sager' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/C4BD04B3-FD69-4D91-9AE1-B1939446C8B0%40gradyresearch.com. |
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