Hi , battery may come right back put on charger overnight .. Battery still had 10 v not zero Most 12v batteries are around 80 AH , so 30 minutes probably around 80 A or less was the draw to burn it ( 35 rated) so it only took out about 1/2 . Worth a go Don't leave sitting if half discharged . They hate that , causes sulphation .
Note that with a dead 80 AH batt and 35 A generator it is going to take 2 hours to fill up by driving , so ammeter wont act normal for quite a while . Modern cars have 100A alternator 3 x as fast . AC 300 has 40 or 45 A set up .
By the way, only thing that matters on batts is AH ( correlates with the weight of the lead/ battery ) CCA is straight advertising bs . Battery guys avoid stating AH, as that allows a real comparison , measured at 20 hour rate . 80 AH at 20 hours is 4 A for 20 hours . 100 AH 5 A / 20 hours , heavier battery .
To finish up on VR for those who wonder , one of the other 2 relays is the VR function , it opens around 14 V adds a resistor to field to slow charge but then volts will drop and it closes again right away so it vibrates rapidly as battery fills up ( actually 2 step setup - if way over 14 another contact under arm cuts way back, puts 2 nd resistor across field ( sunny day nothing on, 60 mph ) The 3rd relay (heavy wire only) opens same resistor into field at 35 A , keeps generator from burning out , by trying too hard .
Never mess with them . Each one has three settings , — spring tension , air gap underneath to the magnet top , gaps at points . All interact . So ~ 9 things . People mess with them without right equipment and skills wreck them . Fussy things.
On Jul 5, 2025, at 4:23 PM, michael johnson <mikeljgt350@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Thanks, I did change the VR about 4 months ago as the old one was acting erratically (gauge flipping from charge to discharge erratically and not steady) but it seemed to be working fine after start it would show charge and then stay at neutral while running. Maybe it was a bad VR, I got it from MoPar Mall. It seems like my battery is a goner too. hi Mike most likely your voltage regulator reverse current relay failed to open which disconnects the generator from the battery when you stop the engine .
Otherwise , battery current will run into the generator and try to drive it as a motor . As it is held by the fan belt , cannot turn it will burn up . .So likely nothing was wrong with your generator but it is burned up ( likely armature ) now . Has anybody been inside your regulator lately ? Normally that function is very reliable . This usually happens if someone presses down on one of the relays , the reverse current one, it locks in if you do . Only way to release it , if it happens is disconnect battery . Of course it is possible the relay spring fell off / broke or the fine wire coil corroded open . There are two windings on the reverse current , or “cut out “ relay one for voltage ( fine wire) one for current ( heavy wire ) —- when the current reverses in heavy wire ( = discharge at engine stop ) it fights the voltage coil magnetism and it pops open ; when you start the car it is open still , but gen volts quickly build up , pull it closed , charge current adds to volts magnetism pulls it even more closed . Until you stop . So Get new VR , dont just replace gen , as a new one will burn up too . Check harness wires for melt too . You are lucky you went out … Can lead to harness destruction Ammeter tells you all this .
I would get a used gen , keep F stock, Murray Park etc , just get new brushes , you are good to go Many if not most 35 A dodge Plymouth chrysler 57 60 non AC have same parts inside , watch number of grooves , — of course best to get one the same , they can be clocked differently for F mount , send him a picture hope this helps , John I returned from a cars and coffee event this morning, parked my 300F in my garage, and it was running fine. About 30 minutes later I went back to the garage to get something I left in the car, and the garage was full of a whitish gray smoke. I opened the hood of the F and the generator was smoking heavily. I checked the battery and it was at 10 volts and would not start the car, I put a battery pack on and the car started but the amp gauge pegged discharge, so I shut it off an disconnected the battery. I am assuming the generator shorted out and is probably toast. I am thinking about getting a new generator but then am wondering if converting to an alternator system might be better. Has anyone done this and how difficult is it? Thanks for any ideas. Mike
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