Re: {Chrysler 300} Re: Evans Coolant
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Re: {Chrysler 300} Re: Evans Coolant



I agree with Carl ; ~~~ many “ recommendations “
from auto dealers , oil companies and “ waterless  coolant companies”  are driven by making a ( big ) buck , ~~ the elaborate marketing  claims of why this happens and is good for you  are often BS 

When mobil 1  first came  out ( equal length hydrocarbon  chains  in the oil- real science )it was  from efforts  to develop better air craft turbine oil . Real .Not BS 
So I  read a test they did on a 350 chev , full scientific support , there was no meaningful degradation in the oil till 18000 miles  , and then it was additives fading out  .  super oil base remained perfect as super oil .At one time  motor oil had NO additives and cars still worked  ok 

While this must be 20~ 25 years ago? at that time  i started using abd  changing mobil 1  every 10 k miles . Two 4,0 jeep ( amc motor)   went over  300 k miles , when I say zero  oil added in 10k you wont    believe me but true. Even at 300 k  . 
Everyone i knew in car world said you are nuts , mopar  recommended  1500 or 2 k oil  changes in our cars . 5 x the need with good oil . Step back and  think  about it . Follow the $! 
Oil co and dealers profited  , x 100 million cars . 
Today Japanese cars recommend 10 k . The engine internals have not changed in any significant way They seal the transmission mow,  no dipstick even , “ Camry good for life of car”   by 2013 …. 

So in anti freeze , i found out over the road diesel trucks  going 600k~800k between rebuilds  do NOT  change out green antifreeze, the ethylene  glycol is still intact chemically why are we changing it   ? beyond  “ recommendations” from those who profit, or “ honest,  I have something better  “ Fish carburetor stuff to me. There never was a problem , if there is — it is not the antifreeze 
What does  happen  is additives fade that are in it to lube water pump seals ( a little better) and anticorrosives especially for mixed aluminum / iron systems . 
So on a schedule they just replace  the additives   ,?not  throw away 20(?) gallons of perfectly good ethylene glycol . I do not see the additives widely promoted in the auto world but new antifreeze every two years is   .Follow the $ 

Somewhat related , the second of those jreeps had factory HOAT antifreeze ( the orange stuff) along with dire warnings  to use only HOAT , especially not mix them . I followed that , but from 180 k on , started to have cooling issues which got worse . Replaced stock  ( aluminum ) radiator once , marginally  better ~~ for a while . Recently replaced radiator again  this time with aftermarket 4 row , ( stock was one row)! a joke . But inside was a white residue powder, even in hoses .  . Not good — whatever it is    . And I am not an expert , all I know  is HOAT costs more and leaves white powder and the car overheated . All I need to know . But still in it out of caution . BS bell ringing, experts are not — vs 80 years of glycol  . Why all this? Is a good question . $ again ~~   

By the way 4 row took two weeks of body mods ( 02 grand cherokee) lower tank hit frame horns  ( had to dent  outward with power hammer  ) and also top of  tank hit hood underside( not worth it )

 I do make  mistakes ,own this . 3 row also needs mods , but minor . Can overdo stuff , 4 row is too thick , had  to tip it , top back half inch even to get hood  latch in , unbolt the steering  box to slide it down  on and on .—  In and  out  a few times with mucho hassle  , 1/8” hits  everywhere .

Stock  was ok for 180 k miles , should  have just thrown out HOAT for  glycol ? 
   
Keep it simple… 
jg  

PS 
after 65 years in cars, overheat is either ( mostly) radiator or airflow ( shroud, fan clutch , add electric fan junk now) but usually radiator . 
residue on tubes inside slows heat transfer . So additives like diesel ,?  before  the  issue seem reasonable 
But if overheating in older car  its  the radiator   , unhappy news 
Not mysterious rust  in block etc , any more than rusty frying pan  slows boiling. Problem is getting rid of heat   in the coolant 


On Sep 8, 2025, at 9:23 PM, Carl Bilter <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:


Thanks, Dyke, for suggesting review of the No-Rosion web page.  Very interesting products and material to read.   I have not used Evans and never will.  I understand that Bob J wants feedback from those who have used it, but I don't quite get why anyone would (except in rare circumstances as described in the review, which is here:  No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers  )

Our cars used good ol' green silicate ethylene glycol.  I have tried long life and have gone back to green.  The no-rosion site explains why use of green in cars that used it for decades is important - again, very interesting reading:  

Coolant flushes are among the easier tasks on our cars (can use Prestone kit via the heater hoses).  So what if it has to be done every two years?  Better for the cars anyway, and straight green coolant is under $10/gal and available at the nearest farm store (where I live anyway).  Just capture the old antifreeze and take it to the nearest recycle center for free.  I do understand, that if you can't work on your own cars due to limitations, that it would be a pain to take it somewhere every two years.  And yes, highly toxic material that you must keep away from animals and little children.  But green coolant works fine, as it always has.  

Carl B.  


------ Original Message ------
From "Dyke Ridgley" <ridgleyracing65@xxxxxxxxx>
To "Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date 9/8/2025 6:37:13 PM
Subject {Chrysler 300} Re: Evans Coolant

Bob:

I would recommend you go to the No-Rosion website and read about waterless coolant in their question and answers section. If you cannot find the information, let me know and I will post the article from their Newsletter. The owner of the company writes the articles and is a graduate chemical engineer. He and his products are  the real deal. There are a lot of serious negatives related to Waterless coolants and you should be very informed before you go down that road.

Dyke Ridgley

On Monday, September 8, 2025 at 6:24:27 PM UTC-5 rpjasin wrote:

All,

 

I’m giving serious thought to changing over to Evans coolant in my G.  I’ve read a lot about it and really like that it is a permanent solution to avoid coolant changes, eliminate cooling system corrosion, and reducing system pressure due to its high boiling point of 375 degrees F.  I am aware that the conversion requires removal of all the old coolant and that the system has to be purged with a product made for doing that.  I’m also aware that Evans is about $50/gallon so the conversion would come close to $300 altogether.  Does anyone here have any experience with Evans coolant?  I’d like to hear from those that have actually used it, and if you were happy with it or not.  If not, what problems did you have?

 

300ly,

Bob J

Danville, CA

 

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