what Noel describes is reasonable too , the impact of temp changes on the carb is significant , I have done that also — easier to do on stock car as it sits — tie it open or remove the blocking plate to keep stock look , if into the exhaust anyway . While on that never ever leave head pioe hanging on manifokd bolts. It will snap off the ear , you are thoroughly 100% screwed . Cast iron cannot be welded , despite those who do not understand why ( metallurgy) saying it can be . It can repaired at a red heat , costs 1000$ . Been there . No heat also means NY er manifolds ok , ram exhaust manifolds are impossible to find you don't want wild carb temp excursions impacting your tune — many of the JK contingent run a 1/4” hoke in a washer too . I have done that , on F no control valve it helps it warm up a bit faster , cant really overheat . Some GM ( Buick for one maybe on turbo ) use electric heat pad in plenum, shuts off once say 90 or 100 in carb area Electric choke helps us too ,choke action is independent of any erratic carb temp —- In case anyone is thinking about it, I put manual choke like J on an F . Bad idea , gets complicated due to air valve in F G carb . The stock choke can be slow without exhaust heat but that is adjustable somewhat . Electric solves all that Best solution may be a “ regular AFB “ with idle air controlled by throttle stop , that way electric choke can impact air and fuel .As every other car in the world works But with bell crank setup the two carb stops will interact But could be worked out with air syn thing to balance air flow at idle We do that now indirectly by keeping air screws open the exact same amount Maybe why they put them there , but causes other problems , no ported advance , air flow during choke is ? seems to me goes way rich on choke Should be two throttle cables to carbs . Then balance them Our ram carbs are weird with that screw air valve , how does that work when choked? it “ sort of does” — sort of . Even more on this , do you know that ram vacuum advance is not ported? It is manifold vacuum !!! huge step backwards, gives full vacuum advance at idle ? Ever notice in factory “ specs”it days in F addendum “ there is no specification for advance at idle” you set it with vacuum shut off So the minute you touch the pedal spark retards (?) so idle rpm drops at tip in ? can equal stall like I said this thing is / was really half baked jg On Oct 4, 2025, at 9:20 AM, dave mason <forwardlook300@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/35FA5A8F-53BB-4087-9F57-BEA186F81874%40gradyresearch.com. |
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