Re: [Chrysler300] 392

[Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>]

Good advice.
Another thing to pass along is something I have done for years when starting an engine after extended storage.I use a clean, small fuel tank from an old lawn mower and a length of fuel line connected to the suction side of the fuel pump and plug the line from the vehicle tank to prevent spillage. This way no old gas or other gunk will foul the carbs.
Then I mix a rather strong mix of gas and 2-cycle oil for the small tank and use that to try to start the engine. Besides having clean, fresh fuel, the 2-cycle oil provides extra lubrication on first startup and warmup for valve guides, rings, and maybe a little extra for the up side of the cylinders, since the oil you used before first tried to start probably only oiled the lower part of the bores.
 Another thing I do when pre-oiling with the plugs out is after squirting oil in each cylinder, insert a small hose attached to an air supply into the cylinder and let it flop around to distribute the oil. A shop rag held over the opening helps reduce the mess and you are more sure of even distribution.
I have seen engines started dry that pushed the piston to the top, where it stuck and when the rod went down, it left the ring portion of the piston there and pulled the wrist-pin and skirt only and after a few trips up and down usually starts coming apart and leaving its mark in the bores,
Since you have compression, you aren't there, but pulling to start puts more strain on everything than using the starter, where you can watch and listen for squeaks or sounds of binding up.
If you advance the timing too far and are using the starter, you will know right away because it will kick back. 
Okie Bob

JettLarry@xxxxxxx wrote:
Tow/push starting any engine that has sat for a long time encourages stuck  
valve guides ( possibly the real reason the car will not start) to grab the  
valve stem and bend the stick causing no end of trouble.  Before doing so,  
spend a day or so lubricating the valve stems with penetrating oil, Marvel  
Mystery oil, ATF or kerosene and then bang on the ends of the valves with  something 
hard to be sure that the valve actually moves when asked to.  The  valve 
guides in my C300,  restored years ago and now DC's, were so stuck to  the valve 
stems after many years of non movement, that banging on two of the  valves 
caused the guide to leave its hole with the stem still  attached.


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