manifold heat valve - reply

[John Hertog <crossram@xxxx>]

Hi Doug,

Those heat valves were there for a reason - to make the choke come off in a
reasonable amount of time. If you are planning on using the original carb
with mechanical choke pull-off, getting the heat riser valve working as
intended is a good idea. If you are planning on using a modern carb with
electric choke, then you might as well wire the thing open and be done with
it !

Parts for these suckers ARE available. Jeff Carter (jcauto@xxxx)
carries some. Brad's NOS Parts carries just about ALL of the parts -
albeit at a high price. You can buy a new shaft, butterfly, bushings,
anti-rattle springs, and asbestos stops. http://www.bradsnosparts.com/

Hope this helps !

John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY


----- Original Message -----
From: <doug_jones@xxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2003 2:08 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Question on 413 manifold heat valve


>
>
> Hi 300-o-philes,
>
> Still working away on the rebuilt 413 for my '63 Pace Car. My question
is, what should I do about the heat-controlled valve in the right exhaust
manifold? It is free, but swings from open (larger valve surface is 90
degrees downwind to exhaust flow) to past closed (larger of the valve
surfaces points mildly upwind towards the exhaust flow). It is missing the
anti-rattle spring, and the counterweight stop that attaches with the clamp
screw appears to have rusted in two - it's too short to reach the pin. As
assembled when I got it, the counterweight was mounted such that it
prevented the valve from fully opening. That can't be right, can it?
>
> So should I
>
> 1) Weld the thing open and forget about it?
>
> 2) Try to get new parts and repair it per the factory manual? Where
would I find parts?
>
> 3) Take off the counterweight and spring and just let the valve blow
itself open when the engine starts?
>
> All wisdom appreciated, as always.
>
> Doug Jones
> Boulder Creek, CA tolerably close by to Jett Ranch
>
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