RE: RE: [Chrysler300] Leaky Valve Covers - G

["Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>]

When using RTV, or any gelling-type sealant on Chrysler 300 gasketed
surfaces, be careful not to apply so much that a lot of the excess is
extruded into the working chamber.  I had a Jeep transfer case that had been
rebuilt with an excess of some unknown gasket material that sloughed off and
plugged the little strainer on the lube pump with subsequent failure of the
transfer case.  Similar excess in rocker arm covers could plug the drain
holes.

My experience with cork gaskets is that they continue to compress with time,
requiring periodic snugging up of the fasteners to maintain a seal.

C-300,ly,
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of fabe7445@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 1:51 PM
To: Bob Jasinski; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: RE: [Chrysler300] Leaky Valve Covers - G

   My experience was with cork gaskets, with RTVon both sides of the cork
gasket.

   Jim F
> 
> From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: 2006/06/06 Tue PM 04:12:42 EDT
> To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Leaky Valve Covers - G
> 
>  
> My experience with RTV on the valve covers of my G has not been good.
Mine
> have RTV on them and are leaking like crazy.  I checked everything for
> flatness, liberally applied the RTV and did not over torque the fasteners,
> so I don't know why its leaking.  I believe both cork and rubber gaskets
are
> available, is one type better than the other?
> 
> Bob J
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of lettercars@xxxxxxx
> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 4:28 AM
> To: richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Leaky Valve Covers - G
> 
>  
> Hi Richard and All:
>  
> I have had some success with the following:
>     1. Very completely clean the valve cover, and  makesure it is flat
> around the bolt holes.
>     2. Properly apply the yellow (or black) permatex  weather strip
adhesive
> 
> to both the cover and the gasket.   Probably a couple coats,letting each
dry
> 
> before bonding.
>     3. Apply two or three layers of permatex #2 gasket  sealer on the
head,
> letting each dry.
> I think the problem with the B engine sealing in this area is at least
> partly due to the fact the surface was never machined flat.  Anyway, this
> is an attempt to seal the potential voids
>     4. I apply a coupe coats to the gasket as  well.
>     5. Assemble the cover to the head and tighten the  nuts carefully.  I
> retighten---not too tight---several times over the next  several days.
> I am sure others have there own ways, and will be interested in hearing
> about them.  In my experience, the 6 attachment covers are not all that
> much better than the four.
>  
> As for the valley cover, the smart money would say to replace it.  It
sure
> is a lot of work to go thru again to fix a vacuum leak.  (I have  gotten
> away with using the old on though!) Hope this is of some help.  Good luck!
>  
> 300ly, Gil Cunningham
> Tallahassee, Fl
>  
>  
> In a message dated 6/6/2006 6:56:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> 
> Good  morning,
> 
> The left side valve cover is leaking on the G. Should I pull  off both
rams
> and replace the valley pan? The valley pan is only a year or so  old and
has
> less than 2000 miles on it since I last had it off. Looks like I  am going
> to be able to make it to Carlisle. Before driving that distance, I  was
> going to try and replace the VC gasket.
> 
> Next what are the various  tricks out there to sealing a 4 bolt valve
cover,
> especially on a ram car  where the intakes need to come off. 
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Richard  Osborne
> Columbus, OH
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
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> 
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> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 




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