RE: [Chrysler300] 1961 300 G

["John J. Hertog" <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

And, if I may add one more word of advice to Roger's excellent info: also
make sure that the timing mark on your balancer is accurate, as the outer
ring tends to "walk" (or move) in relation to the inner ring.  You must use
a piston stop indicator to determine that #1 cylinder is at true, correct
TDC and then compare to the mark on the balancer.   I have a pile of old
balancers taken off various engines, and, out of 8 balancers, 7 of them are
off, some by 5 degrees, some by ten degrees, some by 20 degrees, you get the
idea !
 
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY

  _____  

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Roger Schaaf
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 1:53 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Tomas Turovaara
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 1961 300 G



I can address the adjustment of timing via a vacuum gauge. I would not
recommend it, as all a vacuum gauge will tell you is the vacuum that the
engine is creating. This of course will vary depending on carb adjustment
idle screws, lack of vacuum leaks from hoses, gaskets, etc., and will change
depending on timing. Usually you tune to get the highest vacuum reading at
idle.

However this is not true with setting the timing. You could in theory set
the timing to get a very high reading(usually timing advancing will do
that), but end up having far to much advance at normal driving or
performance high rpm acceleration. 

You should never have more then 35 to 42 degrees of TOTAL timing(initial,
centrifugal, vacuum) in any engine at high rpm or under any load. More then
this could cause severe engine problems such as pinging, broken pistons, or
decreased performance.

So now you asked what time it is, and I am telling you how to build a watch.
What you really want to know is can I use a vacuum gauge to set the timing.
The answer is no, as using it as an indicator, could you give a far higher
then normal INITIAL timing---say 15 degrees advance at idle(because again
higher initial timing can give a higher gauge reading) instead of the called
for 6 degrees initial advance(depending on engine spec) for example.

So at high rpm, you could end up at 48 degrees advance instead of the best
performance/safety(depends much on gasoline octane, compression ratio, fuel
richness, combustion chambers(hemis will tolerate more advance), and cam
timing of say 39 degrees maximum advance, because again your total advance
is the sum of centrifugal, initial and vacuum advance(probably no vacuum
advance at high rpm however).

For less then a 100 dollars you can buy a very fine timing light with a
built in advance retard mechanism. Buy one and learn to use it. 

Also when using a timing light to set initial timing, be certain to
disconnect the distributor vacuum advance hose if this is called for in the
engine spec tuning guide. Most engines require this disconnect.

Roger Schaaf
300 B 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Tomas Turovaara 
To: Chrysler300@ <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 11:00 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 1961 300 G

Name Tomas Turovaara

Address Kengisgatan 33
S-981 33 Kiruna
SWEDEN

Phone 46-980-14149 fax 46-980-66404
E-mail tomas.turovaara@ <mailto:tomas.turovaara%40telia.com> telia.com

Hi club members 
I send this questions yesterday but no response I tried today one moore time
today.
I have some questions about adjusting the anti stall unit and ignition
timing on my 300 G 1961.
1. can some one describe how it should work the anti stall unit ?
2. I have adjust it to .005-.010 inch when the idle speed is 750 rpm and
transmission on D position but the anti stall unit is not activated in this
situation should the unit be activated when the idle speed is 750.When I
stop the engine it is the same gap .005-.010 is this ok. Is the vacuum to
low?
3. Can I adjust the timing with a vacuum meter has any one tried this way ? 

I will be grateful if some one can help me with this

Regards from Tomas Turovaara

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