[Chrysler300] Brainstorming & Troubleshooting Req'd - '65 300

["Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Many months ago this group was quite involved in solving a problem with a 
freshly rebuilt 383 in my '65 300 Sport. The car would start and then 
promptly starve and die. That problem turned out to be a small oversight 
(error) I made when rebuilding the carb. I had reversed the metering jets 
causing the engine to die as soon as the vacuum pulled the metering rods 
down into the (now) smaller jets. The problem was identified and corrected 
as a result of this groups collective knowledge and experience.

I have yet to register and drive the car at this point.

Since that time the engine has continued to start and run but has never run 
well. It runs as though there is a miss at idle, the exhaust is somewhat 
blue (smoke), and if I crack the throttle it sometimes will pop. All these 
signs pointed toa vacuum leak. The intake was port matched to the heads and 
the valley pan gasket matches perfectly. I did inspect and replace the 
valley pan and found no typical signs of a leak. To be sure the new gasket 
was sealed I used a silcone gasket sealer on both sides of the valley pan 
gasket. There was no change.

I have installed a Pertronix ignition with Fireball coil, new Taylor plug 
leads, new plugs, a new Edelbrock AFB carb, checked the cam timing with a 
degree wheel, indexed the balancer timing mark to TDC, checked the firing 
order, checked the fuel pressure, measured the valve clearance to ensure 
valves are closing, measured the compression (all cylinders are within 3 psi 
and strong), and adjusted the timing between 0 and 20 degrees initial.

I'm back to thinking it's a vacuum leak, does anyone have any ideas? The car 
has the original manual brakes (for now). Does anyone know of any tricks to 
seal the valley pan? The heads have never been decked so there isn't enough 
room for additional gaskets to add on either side of the valley pan (intake) 
gasket. Do most builders even use silicone or just install the pan gasket as 
the factory did. I can't imagine how it could matter but I'm growing 
concerned that I may have caused a problem when I port matched the heads 
and/or intake to the original valley pan gasket. Any thoughts?

I need to drive this car this summer and I'm getting near the end of my rope 
dealing with the bugs on this engine. It ran like a champ in 2001 when I 
drove the sad looking beater back from California. I should have left 
well-enough alone and lived with the cracked ring for a while.

Thanks guys! Ryan Hill in Vancouver, Canada.

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