Folks, I had a '70 Sport Fury GT many moons ago with the same setup. The headlamp motor has a limit switch in the motor itself that is supposed to shut the motor off in the fully opened and fully closed position. The limit switch is triggered by a small plastic cam that fits on the shaft of the gear that rotates the rod that operates the headlight doors. That little cam wears out. The result is that the motor will crank the doors all the way open against the stops, but the motor is still energized. Back in those days, there was a kit available from Mopar parts that replaced the gear and the cam. That's what'll fix it! Unplug the motor and manually open and close the headlights with the knurled knob on the bottom of the motor untill you get it fixed. Otherwise, you'll more than likely fry the motor. I have a '70 service manual and parts book. If you'd like, I'll dig out part numbers and see if there's an illustration of the assembly. Best Regards to all, TFM Thomas F. Miller tfm@xxxxxxxxxxxx '57 300C >>> whuff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx> 9/15/2007 10:53 AM >>> On my 70 300, the buzzing was related to the headlight positions. It seemed as though the lights were all the way open (on) and the mechanism was still trying to open them a little more, hence the buzzing. It was several years ago and I can't remember now exactly what I did, I believe it may have been some adjustment of the electric motor mounting which I think is slotted. Bill Huff At 9/15/200709:55 AM, mwl1967@xxxxxxx wrote: >John, > My '70 Charger does the same thing. It's the headlamp relay >under the dash, attached to the lower dash with a single phillips >screw on my >car, possibly similar or maybe plugged into the fuse box on yours. ( I'll >check my '70 300 this weekend ) > > Anyway, the buzz continued even after I replaced several good >used relays with an oem, nos piece. The headlamp motor was nos >also. I've been >told that the contacts inside the motor may be out of adjustment causing the >relay to think that the lamp doors are still open and hence, not shutting >off the current ( because it wants to close the headlamp doors >). This causing >the contact points inside to buzz. I'd disconnect it until you figure it out >rather than risk burning out the relay. > > If you figure it out please let me know. > >Mike Laiserin >Phoenix, Az > > > >************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >To send a message to this group, send an email to: >Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >For list server instructions, go to >http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm > >For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/ >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/