RE: [Chrysler300] electrical hints please

["Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>]

I recall that non-operation was a sign that one of the bulbs was out on that
side.  Perhaps there is enough difference in the cleanliness/resistance at
the sockets/bulbs to cause this mismatch.  And the lead tips on the bulbs
can become worn and beat in due to vibration over time.  It would be real
easy and low tech to remove both bulbs on the non-op side, inspect the
sockets for corrosion and spring action on the contacts and replace the
bulbs with two, new high quality 1034 bulbs.

I'm sure there are better ways of polishing up the inside of the sockets if
they are corroded, but I have used use steel wool twisted around a 3/8", or
so, bit in a variable-speed drill.  Some Scotch-Brite should provide the
same results.  Rejuvenating a sticking contact is more difficult, but some
WD-40 to the base of the sockets, followed by some reciprocating on the
contact should free anything up.

The indicator lights on the dash are connected to the same wires leading to
the front turn signal light filaments on our '55 C-300.  One side not
lighting up when the corresponding front bulb is lit is indicative of
something disconnected somewhere back of the dash or elsewhere in the loom.
It also takes that small bulb current out of the loop and may be enough to
disable the flasher due to low current.

If the wiring has been redone, it is possible to reverse the taillight or
parking light leads with the stop/turn signal leads.  Check the taillights
and parking lights in the dark for consistent brightness side-to-side.  If
one is too bright, it could have its leads reversed.  Additionally, a
high-resistance connection anywhere in the circuit can limit current flow in
the blink-on position to the point the flasher will not heat up enough to
open its contacts for the blink-off.

I think you should be able to put a Voltmeter on the hot wire to the flasher
to determine if it is getting any signal at all with ignition on and the
turn signal switch in either directional position.  If jiggling the turn
signal arm produces an intermittent Voltage spike, I'd say you have a
problem in the switch.

This is all very basic and, hopefully, not insulting.  You asked for hints.

C-300'ly
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
1955 Chrysler C-300 (Uses wicks, not those new-fangled bulbs)

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 2:56 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] electrical hints please

Hi Group,

My 57C has developed a strange new symptom regarding turn signal operation.

My left (driver's side) functions perfectly, but the passenger side refuses
to blink.  Both the front and rear lights light up, but do not blink on and
off, they just stay on when I use the signal.  Also, the indicator on the
dash for the right turn arrow does not light up, but I checked the bulb and
it is fine.

I used a new Greg Legatt wiring harness during my restoration, and all was
well when I put it together 2 years ago, so I don't believe it is a harness
issue.  I can't remember where the turn signal relay is physically located,
or if it is even a separate part I can easily reach to replace.  I'm puzzled
by the fact that the dash indicator doesn't light even though both the front
and rear turn signal bulbs do.  I was pretty sure the front light and the
dash indicator were physically connected to the same terminal on the turn
signal relay.

 

Any hints appreciated.

 

John



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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