RE: [Chrysler300] 300H amp gauge

["Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Doug,
 
You've got me scratching my head on this one.  Obviously the solid state
regulator was bad.  The one on my G was also bought from John Hertog and
works great, no needle jumping.  I was looking through archived 300 emails
last night and also found this that is pertinent:
 
<Hello folks!
    Jeff Carter may recommend to you to use vacuum pump oil on the pivot of
the ammeter gauge.  He states that the gauge is not defective but there
needs to be a lubricant present on the pivot shaft that gives a little
resistance ( less friction reduction, not to be confused with electrical
resistance) to keep the needle from bouncing around.  He suggested this
remedy for my ammeter gauge.  I will be sending the gauge cluster to him in
a few weeks to have cosmetic refurbishing performed and at that time he will
apply the vacuum pump oil to my gauge. Vacuum pump oil is used frequently in
biomedical instrumentation.  He discovered it when he was working in the lab
at Univ. of WA.  300'ly,  ROB KERN>
 
I have a hard time believing that when our cars were new they had this
problem, customers would have complained.  There must have been dampening in
these ammeters when new that somehow wore out.  Sounds to me like it was
vacuum pump oil.
 
Bob

  _____  

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of 2HsandaHeritage@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 4:35 PM
To: Bob Jasinski
Cc: Robert' 'Blohm; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300H amp gauge







Hi Bob, Bob and Group, 

Thatks to all who responded. 

I replaced the solid state regulator that I got from John H with an old
mechanical one that I had laying around and guess what - it behaved like it
should! 

No rapid fluctulations! I plan to install the "suspect" solid state one on
my other H and see what happens. 

It's 90 degrees today, so maybe the higher temp. made a faulty connection
more secure? 

Doug Warrener  

Fair Oaks, CA 

300H 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@pacbell. <mailto:rpjasin%40pacbell.net> net> 
To: "Robert' 'Blohm" <robert.blohm@ <mailto:robert.blohm%40enersys.com>
enersys.com>, 2HsandaHeritage@ <mailto:2HsandaHeritage%40comcast.net>
comcast.net, Chrysler300@ <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 1:21:49 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 300H amp gauge 

Dear List, 

We are fortunate to have Bob Blohm as a contributor to this list and a Club
member.  I have had the pleasure of also working with Bob at Exide and owe a
great deal of my battery knowledge to him, as I attended training classes
taught by him while employed at Exide.  Bob's battery and charger knowledge
is extensive and he has assisted me with technical advice in applications
ranging from motive power forklift batteries, to telephone backup systems,
to substation batteries in nuclear power plants. 

Great post Bob, and as you mentioned, the problem can be fixed by going to a
solid state regulator.  This is what I did a number of years ago and never
looked back.  It is possible to install the solid state regulator in the old
mechanical regulator box so as to maintain the original look most of us
prefer, that's what I did on my 300G.  No more headlight flicker and
bouncing ammeter! 

Bob J 

From: Chrysler300@ <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Chrysler300@ <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Blohm, Robert 
Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 7:15 PM 
To: 2HsandaHeritage@ <mailto:2HsandaHeritage%40comcast.net> comcast.net;
Chrysler300@ <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 300H amp gauge 

Doug, I have a 61 Imperial that does exactly the same thing. The alternator
was invented and first used by Chrysler in either 60 or 61. GM caught up in
63 and Ford in 64 for some models. When you start the car you take some
power out of the battery. This suppresses the battery voltage slightly. With
the engine running the regulator now puts on full field excitation to the
alternator and the alternator puts out full power thus you see the ammeter
swing up to high rate of charge. Since the battery is only slightly
discharged it immediately responds by increasing its voltage. The regulator
immediately cuts back to low charge thus the ammeter drops back to center,
however, the battery voltage now drops back slightly lower than the
regulator would like and it responds by going back to the high rate of
charge. As soon as the battery has recieved enough power to replace that
which was removed during starting (a couple of minutes) the voltage will
hold up high enough that the regulator will not call for the high rate
charge and now the ammeter settles down in the center. Later cars had some
damping in the ammeter to suppress these swings and make them less
noticable. Late 60's went to solid state regulators which eliminated this
characteristic. The solid state regulator is continuously variable while the
early mechanical (relay) regulators where more of an all or nothing
situation. I worked for Exide Battery for 44 years, all though I was in the
industrial division, but spent a lot of time working with charging methods
and response of a battery. Hope this helps explain it. Bob Blohm 
-----Original Message----- 
From: Chrysler300@ <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto: Chrysler300@ <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
]On Behalf Of 2HsandaHeritage@ <mailto:2HsandaHeritage%40comcast.net>
comcast.net 
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 1:32 PM 
To: Chrysler300@ <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com 
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300H amp gauge 

Hi Group, 

My amp gauge needle rapidly moves back and forth when the engine is started.


After driving a mile or so, the needle settles down and remains near the
center of the gauge. 

Can anyone explain what the cause might be? 

Doug Warrener 

Fair Oaks, CA 

300H 

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