RE: [Chrysler300] Water Temp and engine bay heat issues

["John Mc Adams" <clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

To all:

 

Regarding all engine high temperature problems, I have not yet noticed any
mention of the lower radiator hose.  I have heard over the years that
particularly if your water pump is a high output model, sometimes at higher
rpm's the lower hose (that returns the radiator water to the engine - also
called the suction hose) can collapse, obviously causing a major restriction
in water flow.  That is why in the past, some water hoses used to have coil
springs inside to prevent or at least reduce the possibility of this
happening.  This phenomenon is basically impossible to detect while driving
down the highway.  

 

Now I am not saying that this is happening on current hoses, and certainly
not at lower rpm's like stuck in traffic etc. but if you are having heat
problems at freeway speeds, install one of those coiled springs in the lower
hose.  It just might help.  The guy at the parts house just stares blankly
at me when I ask for one of these but he gladly let me look through all of
his hoses until I found one that fit. 

 

Also, if you are having overheating problems, or maybe just "think" you are
having overheating problems.  How accurate is your temp gauge on the dash
and the sensor that runs it?  What does it mean when the needle is pointing
before, at, or past the "P"?  Do you keep on going up that long hill until
the engine starts to ping like mad, or make worse noises?  I carry one of
those infrared heat detectors that you point and shoot in the glove box,
right next to the tire pressure gauge.  When the temperature gauge on the
dash indicates a possible problem, I just pull over, quickly raise the hood
and point the IR detector at various parts of the engine compartment and the
upper and lower parts of the radiator (watch out for that moving fan and
belts) to get a better idea of what is really going on under there.

 

Lastly, have your radiator cap pressure tested or just buy a new one.  Check
the fan belts for proper tension and condition.  If you suspect the
thermostat is not working properly, take it out and drop it into a pot of
water.  Gradually increase the temp of the water while measuring the water
temp to see if it opens at about the proper temperature and that it opens
fully.  Don't forget to use a fresh gasket when re-installing the
thermostat.  And if you have A/C (at least on my '62 300) have fun
re-installing the A/C compressor that is in the way of that second bolt on
the thermostat housing.  That is one of my biggest complaints of a stupid
design by Mopar.  Every time I take off the A/C compressor and/or thermostat
housing I also replace the temperature sensor which is also conveniently
hidden underneath that A/C compressor.

 

 

Big John Mc Adams

(In SoCal)

 


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