RE: [Chrysler300] Overheating Issues

["C Bilter" <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx>]

As others have already stated, recoring the radiator is the way to go.  The
price may vary with the price of copper; I paid $392 last fall for a recore
on one of my '63 Imperials.  I think that OEM style should be fine.  As Andy
M stated, you need to make sure the block is reasonably cleared out first.
Our cars had excellent cooling capabilities when they were new, but unless
the cooling systems were properly maintained by original owners (unlikely),
they get really cruddy especially on a car that may have sat idle a lot with
neglected coolant, such as a low mileage car.  A vinegar & water solution is
probably not strong enough to clean out the block passages.  I had good luck
with muriatic acid and water; however, this approach can be dicey because
any earlier repairs may get dissolved away by the acid (along with the crud)
and you can wind up with a caustic mixture spraying form a pinhole leak in
the radiator or freeze plug all over your engine compartment.  Not cool!
You also have to be careful draining and properly disposing of the mixture.
A better approach is to get the drain plugs open on the block which can be a
real pain, or if you replace freeze plugs have the block flushed with the
plugs out and you will have good results.

 

Some folks insist that the factory- specified 180 degree thermostat is
necessary in order to keep the coolant in the radiator sufficiently long
during "normal" driving, especially with A/C.  I have successfully used 160
degree thermostats for years without any issues, but don't run the A/C much.
The engine will get up to its normal operating temperature anyway once the
thermostat opens.  Over advanced spark timing will make the engine run
hotter but I think that on our letter cars you will typically get too much
detonation first (on pump gas) vs. overheating. If the engine is getting too
hot you will definitely get more detonation (ping) in general.  Idle set too
low could raise temp at idle in traffic.  Aux trans cooler would only affect
the transmission fluid temp and can be helpful for spirited driving or
towing, although not factory correct of course.  Good luck.

 

Carl Bilter

300J

Cedar Rapids, IA

 

  _____  

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of charlies@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 8:58 AM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Overheating Issues

 

  

Hi All,
Since we all drive the same type of "large autos", perhaps this group could
come up with a few answers / suggestions to my problem. Seems that when I'm
in heavy traffic with my 62 dual quad sport, the temp guage wants to live at
the wrong side of the guage (hot). Then the car wants to bog and stall. At
highway speeds she drives and cools much better.
The radiadtor shop confirms that the rad is the original one that was
shipped with the car - although only 29k on the drive train, they seem to
think that the core would be pluged up. I did a cooling system flush with
vinegar and water and that helped somewhat but not enough. The rad shop
wants to re-core the rad with a 3 core low flow core. Does anyone have
thoughts on low flow cores. The rad shop says this type of core is more
efficient than the old tech OEM core. The clutch fan is good, the 160 degree
thermostat is new, the hoses are all good and I'm pretty sure the head
gasgets are good. Also would any of the following items have an effect on
engine temperature under NORMAL driving conditions - carb jetting, spark
plug heat range, distributor timing. Also would an aux trans cooler help
this situation. I suspect the rad is the major issue here, but I'd like to
cover all bases if I can. 
Thanks, Charlie in Ottawa (62 Sport).





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