[Chrysler300] Overheating Issues

["Richard Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>]

Actually, heat transfer from the coolant inside the radiator to the moving
airstream is affected by the velocity (flow rate) of the coolant inside the
radiator.  For a given airflow, total heat exchange (temperature drop) of
the coolant is dependent on coolant flow rate.  To have that make sense,
visualize that a very low flow coolant flow rate would yield an outlet
temperature very near the inlet air temperature.  A very high coolant flow
rate would result in a very minimal temperature drop.  Heat transfer takes
time.  I'm guessing that the design engineers use idling in high ambient
temperature as their design point.

I understand that the water pump impellers of cars with air conditioning may
have smaller diameters than the impellers in non-air conditioned cars.  On
the air side, more air velocity is better up to a point.  For 1955 Chryslers
with air conditioning the area behind the radiator and outside of the shroud
is enclosed with a box to improve air flow past the 35% of the 20" x 24" HEX
(engineering-ese for heat exchanger/radiator) that is outside the 20"
shroud. I think the a/c cars also have more blades on the fan (5 vs.4).  The
additional blades create more air flow at idle and higher horsepower losses
at high speed as compared to the standard fan.

Heat exchange calculations require an assumption of the crud effect or
fouling factor.  Engine and/or radiator coolant passages that are plugged or
scaled significantly reduce heat transfer and coolant flow rate.
Cleanliness of the system is probably the most important factor as these
Brutes ran just fine in hot weather when they were new.  (So did
we--remember?).

C-300'ly,
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA (87F@ 4:30 PM)
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 2:35 PM
To: czbill@xxxxxxxxxx
Cc: 2HsandaHeritage@xxxxxxxxxxx; charlies@xxxxxxxxxxxx;
chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Overheating Issues

No real difference in cooling capacity results from slowing or speeding the
flow rate through the cooling system.  A possible benefit of speeding it in
a high performance situation is that there could be a reduced likelihood of
having a hot spot in the engine, ie, there could be a little more even heat
distribution throughout the engine with a resulting reduction in parts
distortions.
Old wives tales are very persisten.
-----------------------mg

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Bill Huff <czbill@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: 2HsandaHeritage@xxxxxxxxxxx,charlies@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Overheating Issues
Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2010 16:26:03 -0400

  
This brings up an old caution, or else it's an 
old wive's tale. "Don't remove the thermostat, 
the coolant will pass through the radiator too 
fast to cool", says the old saw. Seems to me to be contra logical.

I have run MANY cars without a thermostat and 
never found it made the car overheat. I stopped 
doing it when I pulled an engine and it was so 
sludged up the oil pan was a solid of grease with 
a tunnel for the crankshaft. I run thermostats 
to make sure the engine gets up to temp on short 
runs to burn off moisture and other 
contaminants. I can't see the reason for a 
larger opening thermostat unless the size of the 
engine (stroker) is greatly enlarged.

Any thermodynamicists out there care to attack this problem?

Bill Huff

At 6/4/201010:49 AM, 2HsandaHeritage@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
>
>
>
>Charlie,
>
>I forgot to tell you of one other thing that I did.
>
>Chrysler performance has (or had) thermostats with larger openings.
>
>I have one in the "problem" car, but can't say if it helped or not.
>
>Doug
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:charlies%40xplornet.com>charlies@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2010 6:57:47 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
>Subject: [Chrysler300] Overheating Issues
>
>Â
>
>Hi All,
>Since we all drive the same type of "large 
>autos", perhaps this group could come up with a 
>few answers / suggestions to my problem. Seems 
>that when I'm in heavy traffic with my 62 dual 
>quad sport, the temp guage wants to live at the 
>wrong side of the guage (hot). Then the car 
>wants to bog and stall. At highway speeds she drives and cools much better.
>The radiadtor shop confirms that the rad is the 
>original one that was shipped with the car - 
>although only 29k on the drive train, they seem 
>to think that the core would be pluged up. I did 
>a cooling system flush with vinegar and water 
>and that helped somewhat but not enough. The rad 
>shop wants to re-core the rad with a 3 core low 
>flow core. Does anyone have thoughts on low flow 
>cores. The rad shop says this type of core is 
>more efficient than the old tech OEM core. The 
>clutch fan is good, the 160 degree thermostat is 
>new, the hoses are all good and I'm pretty sure 
>the head gasgets are good. Also would any of the 
>following items have an effect on engine 
>temperature under NORMAL driving conditions - 
>carb jetting, spark plug heat range, distributor 
>timing. Also would an aux trans cooler help this 
>situation. I suspect the rad is the major issue 
>here, but I'd like to cover all bases if I can.
>Thanks, Charlie in Ottawa (62 Sport).
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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