Re: [Chrysler300] oil [Synthetic Oil]

[retromobilia@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Kendall is available on Amazon.com, +- 3.65 ; RoyalPurple is available form their website of the same name,+-$15.85. 

J D Jung 
Retromobilia.net 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: moparpjf@xxxxxxx 
To: paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx, Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 11:13:09 AM 
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] oil [Synthetic Oil] 






Are these oils readily available from your local NAPA or Pep Boys store, 
or must they be found elsewhere? 

Pete Fitch 


In a message dated 11/15/2010 2:05:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes: 

On 11/15/2010 12:10 PM, Tom Chvapil wrote: 

> OK, hopefully this will help a bit. 
> I just had my 392 completely rebuilt, with a new performance Isky cam, 
and both the machine shop, as well as the Isky manufacturer gave the 
following instructions for both initial break in, as well as subsequent oil 
changes: 

> " Isky recommends the use of only the following motor oils for maximum 
cam lobe and lifter protection BEFORE and AFTER the break-in period because 
they are the only conventional mineral based oils with generous levels of 
the zinc/phosphorus additive package: 

> * Brad Penn Penn-Grade 1 (The very best of all in our opinion.....) 

> * Pennzoil 'GTP' Racing oil (Excellent-Do not confuse with regular grade 
Pennzoil!) 

> * Valvoline Racing Oil (Excellent-Do not confuse with regular grade 
Valvoline or Valvoline VR-1) 

> **We believe the Brad-Penn product (FORMERLY known as Kendall GT-1) to 
be superior to all other oils.....** 

> If you DO NOT USE one of the above oil, the next best approach is to 
supplement other common mineral based oils with Engine Oil Supplement from 
any GM dealership (part #1052367, 16 oz.) 
> My machine shop indicated that they prefer ZDDP....... 

> **Special note regarding Synthetic Oils** 

> Isky doesn't recommend the use of synthetic oils with any flat-tappet 
cams, especially during break-in. If you must use synthetic oil, AFTER break 
in period, there are only 2 brands we feel comfortable recommending. Amzoil 
(Red) Racing Oil and Joe Gibbs Performance Racing Oil." 
> Other synthetics, especially those with very low viscosity index Numbers 
(i.e. 0w-15, 5w-20, etc) have very low film strength and are not designed, 
nor should they be used in any flat-tappet cam installation. 

> I have retyped this info from the instruction packet I was given by my 
machine shop and Iskycams. 

> Makes sense to me, especially since my shop has no stake in endorsing 
any of the above mentioned products. 

> Tom Chvapil 

Modern metallurgy, machining practices, and modern automotive chemistry 
go hand in hand with MANY considerations and collaborations that are 
geared for To-days mass produced transportation products. 

We however are mainly concerned with Older metallurgy and machining 
practices, which today are outmoded and by and large IGNORED by the 
mainstream automotive chemistry industry. 
The above suggestions certainly sound and read as very reasonable to me 
at this time!! 

Modern Automotive chemistry also has changed the coolant products 
currently being produced. I had to be very carefull about the type of 
anti-freeze product I was replacing (about every year) in my 'hot-rod' 
truck. I foolishly used the current formula generic product for its 
first change about 6 years ago, this lead to solder bloom problems 
affecting my original copper/brass radiator until I replaced the old 
tech radiator for a new tech product. 

Recapping things just a little, modern fuels, oils, brake fluids, and 
other assorted liquid products by and large being sold today for todays 
cars and truck are Different then what was the norm 50-60 years ago. 
Allowances and considerations for these changes should be planed for and 
old practices adapted to the use of modern automotive chemistry products. 

-- 
Paul Holmgren 
Mine: 2 57 300-C's in Indy 
Hers: 05 PT GT R/T HO Stage 1 
Hoosier Corps L#6 

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