RE: [Chrysler300] 413 oil pump

["John McAdams" <clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Bob:

 

I?m just curious, do you have any idea what the actual PSI in the engine is
when the Oil pressure gauge on the dash reads ½ to 2/3rds?  I would suggest
you plumb in an actual (direct reading) pressure gauge to the block to see
just what the pressure is, compared to what the dash gauge says.  Of course
to see whether it actually drops to zero at warm (or hot) idle you will have
to run the pressure line up to the cockpit so you can read it while
driving/idling.

 

If you don?t want the second gauge mounted under the dash, or duct taped to
the steering column (just kidding) just remove it after the analysis is
made.  Some of those direct reading pressure gauges use a small diameter
plastic tube that runs from the fitting on the block to the back of the
gauge.  Be sure that all of the air is purged from this tube (at the gauge
end) for proper readings.  I usually disconnect the tube from the back of
the gauge when the engine is running and let some oil drain (or squirt) out
of the tube into a container.  Then reconnect the tube fitting to the back
of the gauge.

 

If it were me, I would add a brass tee under the oil pressure sender and run
the direct reading oil pressure gauge from there.  That way you are reading
the pressure from the same source (and at the same time) as the dash gauge.

 

(Like Michael Moore said in a later post, his problem turned out to be the
voltage regulator for the dash gauges.)

 

It also sounds like you should go back to the 20-50w oil if that makes the
perceived problem go away.  As for the ?Sealed Power? brand oil pump, I
would go with a ?Mellings? brand oil pump.  Just my preference.  Both Sumit
and Jegs list them for your engine in original equipment and high volume
capacities.  I think your local auto parts dealers also carry Mellings
products.

 

 

Big John Mc Adams

(In SoCal)

 

 

 

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Bob Jasinski
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 3:40 PM
To: mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx
Cc: 'Chrysler 300 List'
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 413 oll pump

 

  

I have no problem with oil pressure above idle speed whether the engine is
hot or cold, the driving pressure is just fine, at least 1/2 to 2/3rds
pressure on panel gauge. The drop in pressure only happens after an
extended run, on a hot day, like when you come off the freeway and are at a
light in gear, or dead stopped on the freeway in traffic, with the engine
idle around 650-750 RPMs. The pressure literally drops to a zero reading on
the gauge, and that is what concerns me, especially if you are stopped in
traffic for long periods.. As I sit there looking at no pressure I envision
the bearings running with no lubrication and worry about it. This has
happened with two different brands and weight of oil, 10-30W and 10-40W, but
did not happen with the 20-50W. I also am running the prescribed amount of
Redline zinc additive, which I believe tends to thin the oil a bit. 

Maybe I should try a straight weight oil, but I think the problem could just
get worse with a straight 30W, as the viscosity won't increase with
temperature as do the multiweight oils. As I see it, the needle should at
least be at the bottom of the pressure indication, even at idle, not at
zero.

Bob

From: mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx <mailto:mgoodknight%40juno.com>
[mailto:mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx <mailto:mgoodknight%40juno.com> ] 
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 2:22 PM
To: rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:rpjasin%40pacbell.net> 
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 413 oll pump

Bob,
I should have added: the fact that you have lower oil pressure at idle
with 10w-40 does not mean that you have lower oil pressure at speed. It is
quite likely that your pressure is still being limited to around 60-70psi by
the pressure relief system. Supplying too much pressure to the bearings can
cause erosion of the soft materials that make the good bearing surfaces on
the bearing inserts. In race conditions that erosion risk is tolerated
because of frequent bearing changes.
Marshall Goodknight, retired engine failure analyst and long time engine
technician with Mechanical Engineering education
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:rpjasin%40pacbell.net> >
To: "'Bill Huff'" <czbill@xxxxxxxxxx <mailto:czbill%40cfl.rr.com> >,
<chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> >
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 413 oll pump
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 13:24:26 -0700

Because a year ago I changed the oil to 20-50W and the problem went away.
Last week I changed the oil back to 10-40W and the problem came back, so I
figure it is the pump, but I am open to suggestions as to other causes. 

Bob J 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of Bill Huff
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 1:05 PM
To: Bob Jasinski; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> 
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 413 oll pump

What made you settle on the oil pump as the reason for low oil pressure?

Bill Huff

3:27 PM, Bob Jasinski wrote:
>
>
>I think it's time to replace the oil pump in my 300G. I'm noticing pressure
>is dropping to a very low level on a hot day after a long drive while in
>gear and idling (went to the Ironstone Concours in Murphys yesterday)
>
>I looked at Rock Auto, and they list 3 different oil pumps all from the
same
>manufacturer (Sealed Power) and one is standard, the second is
>"High-Volume", the 3rd is "High Pressure". Prices are only $10 more as you
>go up.
>
>What gives? Why should I go with a standard pump if the other two are so
>close in price? Is there a problem going with a non-stock pump? Could it
>blow out seals in an older rebuilt engine? Those in the know please share
>your knowledge on this.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Bob J
>
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>
>

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