Re: [Chrysler300] 300 brake troubles

["Robert Hayen" <robert554@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

are you using the master cylinder that has small allen heads that hold the cap on ?   this is the one rodger  sent me for this  4 wheel dics conversion  on this f that i am doing for john jung . it  has 1 1/8  bore , it looks just like a master cylinder from a mid  70's a or b body . i had to drill holes and move it down . then i had to put 1/4 inch spacers under the edelbrock  carbs  to move them up . it all clears now .  i have bleed the brakes , they dont go all the way down, maybe about half the way down . i will most likely have to put a residual valve on the rear line. may be a one or two pound . to keep a little presure on the rear calipers . sometimes this is what is needed. i have installed many aaj brakes on these cars.  i think  this is the 6th or 7th  car . i am all ways happy in the end .  just makes for a better car.  i have pictures of all the brakes if any body wants see.  bob hayen
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Paul Martin 
  To: skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx ; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 7:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300 brake troubles


    
  I spent most of the afternoon doing the fine tuning on my brake conversion and am happy with the results.

  My observations are that the disc brakes while an improvement over drums, are designed for a lighter car. Roger outlines that the rotors are from a 76 Valient/dart, a car that weights 600-800 lbs lighter than the 300. Disc brakes from the later C bodies likely do the job better. they have a bigger surface. the bonus with this setup on my 300F will be lack of brake fade. To use the bigger brakes you have to do a wheel tire conversion.

  In doing the final adjustments I had to set a specific adjustment of the master cyl rod. I did not use the stock rod as it would no go deep enough into the supplied MC. I used a rod from a conversion kit I got for my Dodge Charger from Master Power Brakes. . If you use the stock rod you will need to grind down the circumference at the tip and adjust for the right length. There should be about 1/16 clearance between the free swinging pedal and the end of the rod as it enters the MC bore. This is not an exact measurement as there is no room for a feeler gauge. I had to do some adjusting on the power booster trigger pivot as well. This adjustment is outlined in the service manual.

  One thing that may need some adjustment is the supplied proportioning valve. To date I cannot get the rear brakes to lock up. Test stopping has been limited to 20 mph stops. One lockup is achieved the prop valve needs to be set to eliminate the lockup. If anyone has insight on this adjustment chime in here. Right now mine is set to almost full increase which I am assuming means max pressure to the rear brakes. Later this week I am going to get the car out on the road for some 30-40mph stops and see if lockup is achieved...adjustment to follow.

  Paul

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