Re: [Chrysler300] Idle speed adjustment question

On Apr 19, 2014, at 8:38 PM, Ray Jones <1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Mike;

Something not mentioned here is synchronizing the carbs. Any muti-carb engine should have this done.

Rather simple if you have a Uni-syn tool. I'm sure you can get one from club member John Lazenby.

You adjust each carb to each other. The tool measures air flow into the carb and you adjust the settings so that each carb has the exact same flow.

The tool has a tube with a bead in it which floats up and down depending on air flow and when each carb reads the same, they are synchronized.

Mine is 50+ years old and has been used on racing engines from VW to Hemi's, not to mention Marine engines.

Ray in hot and sunny Mena, AR

On Sat, Apr 19, 2014 at 8:41 PM, Michael Moore <mmoore8425@xxxxxxx> wrote:

Chris, how did you find it had actually skipped a tooth?

If I time my engine "by ear", i.e., advance until I get max rpm, then back off slightly, then when I drive up the hill to my house and the pistons start trying to change cylinders I back off some, if I time it that way it is with the timing mark apparently way more advanced than 10 degrees, A few years ago when I noticed that I decided the outer part of the damper was slipping so I bought a new damper-same thing.

I have never seen an engine which actually skipped a timing tooth. I can more easily imagine engines where the timing sprockets weren't correctly aligned.
I also may be running into problems from the rebuild in 1984 where the builder, a top race engine builder in Illinois, did me some favors because he knew the car was going to California, and he knew the days of tetraethyl lead were growing short. So he had a custom designed camshaft made by Barnes. Its purpose was to lower compression ratio by adjusting the timing of when valves opened and closed. I never liked the way the engine ran since then. I recently found what is probably a 300H camshaft which I plan on installing.

Gasoline quality is another issue I suppose.
Best, Mike Moore
300H
On Apr 19, 2014, at 4:05 PM, kmaniak@xxxxxxxx Moore

300Hcom wrote:

Mike:

I know this may sound like a silly question, but...

Did you check the timing first to verify that it hasn't retarded since the last time you checked it? The last time one of my K's refused to idle at a stoplight and I had to employ the "one foot on the gas and one foot on the brake" procedure, I discovered the timing chain had skipped a tooth.

Chris the K MANIAC

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Moore <mmoore8425@xxxxxxx>
To: Listserver Chrysler Club <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sat, Apr 19, 2014 3:43 pm
Subject: [Chrysler300] Idle speed adjustment question

I just spent an exasperating half an hour adjusting, (or trying to adjust,) the idle speed on my carbs.

The problem I am trying to eliminate is the engine dying at stop lights unless I keep a foot on the gas and one on the brakes.

Out of gear, the idle speed fine except the transition form hs idle to curb idle is pretty raggedy.

I have been following the factory service manual procedure which calls for initial one turn open on idle bypass screws and one to two turns open on the idle mixture screws. I can get the engine idling at 650 and each idle mixture screw seems to be at max rpm. But when the car goes into gear, it dies. I've been increasing idle speed up to 800, but it still struggles in gear at a stop.

Is it too lean?

I am guessing unscrewing the mixture screws ought to richen it up.

Should the bypass screws be so open as to have audible hissing from the intakes?

Thanks,

Mike Moore

300H

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