RE: [Chrysler300] frequency of oil change

["John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Good question, I have same issues.

 

I read of a real , scientifically run test w Mobil 1 where oil did not
degrade measurably for 18 k in a small block Chevy Camaro driven normally. .
This was real scientific testing, sampled  every 1 k miles, into a lab ;
degradation was loss of additives, starting to show at 18k, not oil itself.
The purpose was to vette claims of synthetic vs. regular oil longevity .

 

As a result, I change my oil in all my vehicles ,a lot of them, every 10k
miles, using name brand synthetic , irrespective of time ; I drove one JEEP
4.0 340,000 this way, still in use, uses zero oil. (4.0 AMC is a great motor
by the way)  . But I do use synthetic. Synthetic oil has uniform length
chains , 'perfect oil" , worth it, $ wise,  vs say every 5k miles with
regular oil, as less wear in engine. It was developed for aircraft turbines.
Good enough for me.

 

Nothing happens to oil just sitting there, and latest Toyotas etc recommend
long changes, approaching that 10 k, without synthetic . So I believe as an
engineer,  that 10k with Mobil 1 is even conservative, given lab data ; it
also is "more slippery oil" and stable to higher temps. I did some
experiments in a 1 cylinder air cooled Onan LK generator (runs HOT!)  with
the equivalent of a million miles at 50- 60 mph (1800 RPM) on it,( by hour
meter)  it ran cooler and idled faster for same carb settings after changing
to  synthetic, the synthetic seems to just oil things better=less friction .
It was 1950 Vintage, I rebuilt in 1980, has powered an off grid house for 63
years now. Never rebored,  no wear in cylinder, I used 54 Chevy moly rings
(same size as Onan)  ( burned exhaust valve and loose rod though, both fixed
about 95) . Between the JEEP and Onan, I am convinced.

 

All this assumes no contaminants or water.which gets into car storage
conditions, after a few years. Why warming them up periodically is
important, independent of oil changes . Letting it sit for years will/may
pit cam or worse, as water vapor goes in and condenses with temp and air
pressure changes.. It settles in low places, causing a pit , like we get in
wheel cylinders . This ruined a brand new engine I had in storage. Ruins
torque flights and steering boxes too, so keep full of fluid in storage.

 

On 300's,  every 10 k even if 5 years would not bother me, but you ideally
should run them maybe every six months, at least, to drive out moisture, and
lube things again. and add ZDDP when changing oil. ; I am sure others have
differing  opinions, but so far zero problems, based on reality rather than
"out of the air" opinions, (the tests) and as you say oil not only looks
perfect, ---it is ,---until way after 10k. The recommendations made back
then are suspect, to say the least, as nothing technically significant   (in
changing engine design)has happened since a 413 to a Toyota..except roller
lifters.  maybe even more stress actually.. More $ for service fees, for all
involved, is simple answer . And surely better oil, if synthetic.

 

I had several 30's/40's Packards, they had sat for 25 + years, changed oil ,
and started with fingers crossed, both were OK, ran fine after, although
flatheads with low spring loads on cams . Cam is the worry, I think, which
pouring oil into cylinders "for storage" does not help . 

 

One last thing; I had a 59 Rambler wagon in college, that had NO oil
filter..it was an option. Pan was  full of black sludge when I got it for
free, w about 90 k, opened drain plug,  nothing came out, had to poke a hole
with a stick. Guy had been pouring cheap Sears oil in 5 gallon cans into it
from 70 k mile, never changed it. ."car not worth it"  Cleaned out and
flushed twice at idle for a few hours with kero, drove into junkyard running
fine at 160k years later due to body corrosion . Engine "came back" after
being given up on, once cleaned out and good oil in use, plus highway
driving at 70. True thing ,makes you wonder. Ring packs must have been
stuck. But not a fan of no oil filter at all!!! That one was changed every
4k. 

 

Wish I had that Rambler now! Front seats turned into beds! Two tone blue, if
you see one!

 

Also read that oil filters,  including some name brands are junk from China
inside. Someone might want to look that up..the orange ones !(no name given
here!) were particularly bad. NAPA gold were good, worth the extra $. Micron
rating matters, well designed and built, not a roll of toilet paper inside.

 

John 

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Jim Kelly
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2014 11:05 AM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] frequency of oil change

 






I have seven collector cars. due to time restraints, I put on no more than
100 miles per year on each car. ( I know I should drive them more often)
the cars are stored from late October and started up in early may.
(Wisconsin) cars are never started up during storage period. I use Valvoline
.vr1 racing oil 20/50.  my question - how often do I need to change the oil
in these cars. at $6.00 per quart + oil filters, I am probably throwing
money out the window by changing oil once a year. when I drain the oil, it
comes out looking like honey. can I get by with changing oil every 2-3 years
or more? please advise. thanks in advance, jim










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