Re: [Chrysler300] I walk the line
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Re: [Chrysler300] I walk the line





Ray, et al,
The drive shaft angles at the u-joints must be the same within +/- 2 degrees. I know this from many, many, years of off-roading my Jeeps. So, as the axle moves up and down during driving, both u-joint angles stay the same in relation to each other. Now, this may not be so important while driving down a paved road, but it is extremely important when punishing your driveline during off-road maneuvers. If the angles are not within 2 degrees of each other, you will exert more strain on one u-joint than the other, creating an early failure. As the u-joints wear best when working in concert with each other, if one must endure more strain than the other, the one with the greater angle will usually fail first. That's the physics of the joint. Are you with me so far? The yoke will withstand the angle differential, in most cases, although I have broken a yoke or two. At the yoke, the damage will occur at the seal due to uneven pressure as the drive shaft attempts to spin at an unequal angle. This torque reaction can also cause premature outer or inner yoke bearing failure. The physics is also true of side to side angles as well, but in most cases, the trajectory of the engine/trans is in line with the rear yoke. Clear as mud?
 
Happy Moparing,
Mark
 
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Jones 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: dan300f <dan300f@xxxxxxx>
Cc: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>; dave.dumais <dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx>; Listsaver 300 Club <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Ray Jones <1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thu, Jan 29, 2015 3:56 pm
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] I walk the line



The purpose of the U-Joint is to compensate for the constant changes of the angle between the two parts.
As the car is driven, the Diff. is moving up and down, so the angle changes between the Drive Shaft and the Diff.
The angle between the trans. out put and Drive Shaft is also changing, that's just how it works.
Therefore, whether or not the engine is dead straight in the chassis or not is of no consequence.
Engine, Drive Shaft and Diff. are never exactly aligned unless the car is not moving.
If there is a vibration, you have another problem.

None of this is to say you should not make sure all the parts are installed properly and the engine is sitting in the perfect space that allows everything to work properly. A little off to the side is fine if it all fits OK

Left-Right angle OK, but, the engine must be level when the car is at rest.
This is for the Carb. bowl to function correctly and is checked  with a level on top of the Carb. both side to side and front to back.

And if you have a Drive Shaft with a Middle joint, it is there to prevent Drive Shaft whip.
Ray


On Thu, Jan 29, 2015 at 2:20 PM, dan300f@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
 
Hi all:
 
Seems to me that I was taught in college (55 years ago) that engines and things  that  had mass and moving parts were offset to counteract the torque of the engine, etc.
 
Dan Reitz
____________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/29/2015 12:11:33 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:


I went through this in a Studeabaker, w 2 piece shaft, 3 u joints . Lot of pain,  lot of learning  . ( 50 starlight with 354 hemi, had this all wrong before I got it ) What is critical is that the pinion angle “line” in 3D and the line of the engine/trans are parallel in 3D space ; so a parallel offset even 4” ok side to side up or down , all ok . To side looks awful, driveshaft angles into axle when viewed under car, , but to driveshaft ,no different than up and down angles .(some 4wd front shafts are like that..and some old jeeps in back )  I measured the up and down part by setting frame or engine line level to good floor (not the same ,can be, but a fixed difference you can figure out ), kind of zero that with jacks (one way) ,  then check pinion angle, axle loaded .  A degree or so different with rear wheels loaded is ideal, generally we are worried about up and down angle (=axle tube shims at spring U bolts) ; but as I think Richard meant, also critical looking down on car from sky (if you will) ----that 1) pinion is square to car axis , axle tubes 90 degrees to car axis, and that 2) engine crank line is the same , square to car axis . If front of engine or rear of transmission is moved sideways , vibration will drive you crazy . Axle pinion should be inherently OK in this direction,  set by distance from leaf spring front eye to center of axle tube, usually a locating pin of some kind keeps that the same .
 
Bottom line: if crank pulley is 1” to passenger side, by design, that is OK, trans output also needs to be 1” to passenger side , re trans mounts ..both off car centerline
 
Rationale is I think to clear steering box , ex manifold, starter and column? PS gave them a wild ride fitting it in, compared to straight six and manual steering ..first ones were huge …
 
I could never understand why starter on Chrysler not on other side, move oil filter..
 
John
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 9:19 PM
To: 'Dave Dumais'; 'Chrysler300Club Intl.'
Subject: [Chrysler300] I walk the line
 



The engines in my ’55 and ’64 300’s are offset toward the passenger side and I know the rear tranny mount is also offset to the driver’s side in the ’55 as is the drive tunnel.  The rear tranny mount of the ’55 can be installed either way and had been installed backwards so that the engine, transmission and driveshaft were angled improperly.  I discovered this when addition of a couple of heavyweights in the back seat caused the driveshaft to thump the tunnel.  I had noticed no other problems of vibration but everything was out of whack. 
 
I believe the offset is common with the rationale being to offset the weight of the driver and to give the driver a little more foot room for the accelerator pedal.  This offset is huge in our motor home which is built on the GM P30 chassis and has the back of its 454 intruding between the foot wells.  I looked at our ’99 Jeep and its engine seems to be perfectly centered. 
 
It’s possible the rear tranny mount on all or most of our 300’s may also be offset and subject to installation error.  And, so, worth a peek next time you are underneath to make sure crankshaft, tail shaft and drive shaft are pretty much lined up with the back U-joint being responsible for making up any angularity offsets.  It would not surprise me if the pinion shaft was also slightly out of orthogonality.
 
Rich Barber
Director and Membership Manager
Chrysler 300 Club, Inc.
1801 Redwine Terrace
Brentwood, CA 94513-6000
e-mail:  c300@xxxxxxx
 
 
 
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Dave Dumais dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 4:18 PM
To: Chrysler300Club Intl.
Subject: [Chrysler300] Straight and on centerline?
 
 
My engine and 4 spd are now installed.  Good mounts lined up on the frame studs, and trans tailshaft was tweaked into place to line up mount with bolt and washer.
 
Looking into the engine comp't with hood not installed, the rear of the engine seems to be twisted a bit towards the pass side.
 
Should the center of water pump line up with center of radiator grill?  (radiator is not installed)
I am thinking of installing radiator and then 4 blade fan, and check clearance between fan tips and radiator.
 
If the spacing is even,then there should be no concerns>
 
Thanks,
Dave
 
 






--
Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?




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Posted by: Mark Souders <mrs954@xxxxxxx>


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