Re: [Chrysler300] 300F clock

["John Lazenby french_fryguy@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Rich and all,

Here is something I learned years ago from my father regarding clocks and especially automobile clocks.  First, if it is not operating it is probably due to the fact it is dirty, corroded or both.  He use to take lighter fluid, yes the kind for your ciggy lighter and put some in a small dish.  Then with the clock opened up place the works into the fluid but don't get the face of it submerged.  Agitate is a bit, remove it and let it air dry.

Once this is completed it needs to be lubed but don't use WD40 as it is a "water displacement" product.  WD actually stands for that and 40 is the 40th formula they came up with.  That product is not a lubricant and will not last long when used as such.

What I recommend for this and just about any other lube jobs is Gibbs, Gibbs Brand

				Gibbs Brand Gibbs® is a revolutionary, patented product that works in all temperatures to clean and eliminate corrosion, to waterproof, and to lubricate mechanical h...
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 This product can't be purchased in a store, anyway the last time I looked.  I was introduced to this product about 10 years ago and ordered 2 cans, one for the house and one for the garage.  I'm still on the same cans all these years later.

We have a rare grandfather clock in our home.  In 35 years of owning it we have never had it serviced outside of "me".  A few years back it started not running well, so I tried some Gibbs and for the next year I continued to adjust it to slow it down.  That is how good the stuff is.  I'm sure there are other products on the market that work well but IMO not like Gibbs.

Last, if your clock is converted to Quartz and has a second hand you will notice a pause on that hand between seconds.  An automatic clock with a second had will have a smooth fluid movement.  Look at your Quartz watch vs an automatic and you will see the difference.

John Lazenby

On Thursday, April 23, 2015 12:36 PM, "'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

I did get the clock in our ’55 running.  I assume the later clocks operate in the same manner.  There are contact points in the mechanism.  As the clock spring runs down, the contact points close a circuit that energizes a solenoid that rewinds the clock. With a little finger tip encouragement, the main oscillating member of the can get started.  Very fine lubricant applied to all spindle ends will help get the system going.  3-in-one, or some WD-40 applied with a Qtip will work.  So you have two systems that must work—the points can be filed and the solenoid tested with a 12V source.  If the points/solenoid system can be made to wind the spring, then the clockworks must be free to oscillate and do its thing.  I think there may be a low-amp fuse in the system to protect the clock.  Making sure you have power to the clock would be the first thing to check.  Adjustment was automatic, with each adjustment with the knob automatically changing clock speed in the appropriate direction.  Eventually, after a number of adjustments, it will be about right.

 

Conversion to quartz drive is highly recommended and only you will ever know.  Larry Jett converted the clock in our ‘64K and it keeps perfect time.

 

300K’ly,

Rich Barber

Brentwood, CA

 

 

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Lindsey Fuller lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2015 11:21 AM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300F clock

 

 

Anyone had a go at getting these running again? I only have a week or so before I put the all back together, so no time to send it away. Lights work. recommendations on type of lubricant if I take it apart?

Thks. 

Lindsey in Winnipeg

On Thursday, April 23, 2015 12:36 PM, "'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

I did get the clock in our ’55 running.  I assume the later clocks operate in the same manner.  There are contact points in the mechanism.  As the clock spring runs down, the contact points close a circuit that energizes a solenoid that rewinds the clock. With a little finger tip encouragement, the main oscillating member of the can get started.  Very fine lubricant applied to all spindle ends will help get the system going.  3-in-one, or some WD-40 applied with a Qtip will work.  So you have two systems that must work—the points can be filed and the solenoid tested with a 12V source.  If the points/solenoid system can be made to wind the spring, then the clockworks must be free to oscillate and do its thing.  I think there may be a low-amp fuse in the system to protect the clock.  Making sure you have power to the clock would be the first thing to check.  Adjustment was automatic, with each adjustment with the knob automatically changing clock speed in the appropriate direction.  Eventually, after a number of adjustments, it will be about right.

 

Conversion to quartz drive is highly recommended and only you will ever know.  Larry Jett converted the clock in our ‘64K and it keeps perfect time.

 

300K’ly,

Rich Barber

Brentwood, CA

 

 

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Lindsey Fuller lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2015 11:21 AM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300F clock

 

 

Anyone had a go at getting these running again? I only have a week or so before I put the all back together, so no time to send it away. Lights work. recommendations on type of lubricant if I take it apart?

Thks. 

Lindsey in Winnipeg

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Posted by: John Lazenby <french_fryguy@xxxxxxxxx>

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