RE: [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating

Hi Larry and All,

At times, my Alternator gauge bounces a bit. Then I go out and take the wire off and on the voltage regulator and get a better connection. The bouncing of the gauge immediately goes away. I think the connection can be the problem. I have an electronic voltage regulator that I bought from AutoZone. It does not have any extra wires hanging out. It is electronic and does a great job.

300ly,

Mark Lindahl

’63 300 Conv.

P.S. Thanks for all the assistance with the stalling problem on right turns. I probably will replace the brake booster. It is 10-15 years old and probably worth the investment. The last one blew out when I was driving, making it tough to stop!

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of paul paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 5:42 PM
To: John Grady; 'Larry Jett'; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating

On 6/10/2015 06:36 PM, 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
wrote:

> Hi Larry..went around with this a few times…there are replacement ones
> with a red wire hanging out, electronic “replacement” from China I
> think. But private labeled many ways. They are pure junk. They fail on,
> just as you say. Boils the battery. After much pain on this, I found
> that Standard Motor Parts has, or better had, a higher line, like the
> old Blue streak parts, that looks like the mechanical one, black metal
> box with two metal terminals, electronic , that work hassle free. No
> flicker. SMP makes or resells the cheap one, too. Good one is 2x the
> bucks. But still cheap.

> I had so much trouble with the one with wire hanging out, changed 3-4 x,
> that I found an old mechanical one from a junkyard that worked fine for
> a few years before finding the one I describe. The mechanical ones cause
> the needle dance and flicker..but so what..it works. I wish I had more
> specifics for you on the good one .

> FYI, The older one wire alternator has one terminal of field factory
> grounded, you can use a two wire two brush alternator in an older MOPAR
> by grounding one of the two wire alternator terminals.--the one wire
> from regulator in old design puts + 12V regulated for charge rate on the
> alternator , the +12 is derived from the ignition terminal on the
> box—one wire MOPAR alternator used at least to 67, maybe later; (not
> like one wire term, as used today) . which terminal is which is
> critical..you blow them up if reversed. The original terminals had
> different ends to prevent that, but they often break off, resulting in
> wires under screws .

> Good luck..! John

> *From:*Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> *On Behalf Of *Larry Jett LarryWJett@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 10, 2015 4:46 PM
> *To:* chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> *Subject:* [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating

> Back from Sparks NV and the Inc's spring meet. The alternator is
> showing a constant charge after miles of highway driving. NAPA only has
> the mechanical regular for the 1963 300 Touring 8 (my new name for
> Sport) and the existing VR is an electronic type I learned about from
> Hertog. Anybody know a part number for those small aluminum types that
> don't make the headlights flicker at night?

> Larry W Jett

I might add, IF you are seeking reliable performance and not fretting
nit-pickers, if you have the 'thin' stator alternator, the 'thick'
stator unit also stops or seriously deminishes the flickering dance the
amp meter is doing, even at idle.

--
Paul Holmgren
The history of liberty is a history of resistance.
The history of liberty is a history of limitations
of governmental power, not the increase of it.
- Woodrow Wilson, New York, September 9, 1912

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Posted by: "Mark Lindahl" <mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

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