Who sells insulation kit?
I have had the engine rebuilt less than 50,000 miles ago (but many years) after over 300,000 miles.
Distributor rebuilt by Philbin last year.
Damper rebuilt the year before (timing mark issue)
New plugs last week.
New plug wires (solid core) last year
Carbs “restored” by Ace Fuel in San Jose
I checked vacuum and did respond as soon as I did, I had 15 inches which was unaffected by idle mixture adjustment.
Timing is at 10 BTDC
Idle at 650 (sometimes).
How did you trace your problem to worn valve guides by using a vacuum gauge? What specifically said “worn valve guides”?
Do you think carb cleaner sprayed on the intake manifold causing engine speed changes meaningful?
What else would you suggest?
On Oct 26, 2015, at 12:35 PM, ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi Mike -
With all due respect, what you are doing is taking 'wildazz guesses' at the problem, rather than finding the true issue. With this approach, you will end up wasting your time and wasting your money.
You need to do a proper diagnosis of the problem in order to determine the solution.
Please reread my previous responses. If you have never used a vacuum gauge, there are plenty of write-ups on the internet and some videos on YouTube. It is the best tool for diagnosing top end problems on your engine.
Note: I was in the same situation that you are in, about a year ago. Rough idle in gear (slow idle, fully warmed up engine). Also thought it was vacuum leaks. I resealed intake manifold, sprayed carb cleaner, got a new carb base gasket, etc. Still had the same problem. I hooked up the vacuum gauge. It was reading 13-14" at slow idle, rather than 18-20", which is normal. The fluttering needle was traced to worn valve guides, which is likely in an engine with 204,000 miles. So the heads are coming off soon for a rebuild.
From: "Michael Moore" <mmoore8425@xxxxxxx>
To: "Mark Souders" <mrs954@xxxxxxx>
Cc: ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx, chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 2:55:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Chrysler 300H idle speed
Check this out: A cracked intake manifold on the bottom side could explain it.
Manifold Silencer Insulation Kit
| This Intake
Manifold Insulation was used all through the 1960s, and into the 1970s on
big blocks, except hemi. It's not likely to
have been used on 440-6 engines, and it's not likely to have been used on mid-1970s-and-later high performance blocks.
Its purpose was listed in parts catalogs as "Valve Tappet Noise Reduction Silencer Package." Some say its real purpose was to
prevent the intake manifold from cracking due to heat. Some say it was only used on air conditioning cars.
Those who have observed many original engines have seen its two pieces tucked under the intake manifold.
It is POSSIBLE to install these exactly-reproduced pieces after your manifold is already in place, but it's much easier to do like
did. The pieces were placed on the pan, large piece in front, small piece
in rear, then the manifold was bolted in. These pieces should have engine
These silencers are a heavy aluminum foil filled with a fiberglass insulation pad. The foil is correct in size and shape. The pads are a pair that don't look like each other, nor did the originals. The edges of the pads are sealed correctly. Retainer not included.
----- Original Message -----From: Michael MooreSent: Monday, October 26, 2015 7:02 AMSubject: Re: [Chrysler300] Chrysler 300H idle speedThanks Keith for your input. I am not at all convinced I have all the vacuum leaks identified and fixed. I reused my existing base flanges gaskets with sealant added but ordered a new set of gaskets. I need a new phenolic spacer but have been unable to find one yet on line. I am also concerned that it may be the intake manifold to block leaking. Meanwhile, the starter began to fail so I have to replace it. My plan now is to ship the dis back to Philbin and ask Mark to check it for stability because the timing does move around a bit and I should have realized that would cause the hunting. I need to do that to scratch it off my list if nothing else. I have also ordered a new set of ignition cables, and I do not think its those either.If I have to take the intake manifold off, this is probably the time to replace the camshaft with the stock camshaft (-although as I write that I ask myself “What does that disassembly have to do with replacing the camshaft?”-probably very little as the tasks are pretty much unrelated I think).Best, Mike Moore300H Morgan Hill, CaOn Oct 25, 2015, at 9:15 PM, Keith Boonstra <kboonstra.zeegroup@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Mike,I suppose it could always turn out to be a distributor issue, but I'm putting my money on your finding yet one more vacuum leak you haven't plugged. Your symptoms sure sound similar to the challenging ones I had on a Quadrajet GM car until our carb guru Jim McGowan at the Quad Shop found vac leaks in my carburetor. Are you pretty sure everything is tight now in the intake area?Keith BoonstraOn Sun, Oct 25, 2015 at 6:01 PM, Michael Moore mmoore8425@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Philbin is terrific to deal with. I am going to do the check idle timing as Marshall suggested and confirm it varies, then call Mark about sending it back for a check .Best, Mike Moore300H
On Oct 25, 2015, at 11:23 AM, Gary Nelson <gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:I highly recommend any old distributor with unknown history, MUST be rebuilt and setup on a dist. machine. I highly recommend the Philbin Group in Portland OR, 1-800-869-7301, talk to Mark. If I remember correctly, The charge for basic rebuild was $75. Also, they can rebuild or replace vacuum advance. I installed and recommend electronic ignition.Note: with electronic ignition you must pay special attention to the voltage out put at the resistor. To high and you will fry the electronic component. I may mention Philbin is fast and courteous. I am sure there are many qualified to do rebuilds. Any of them are UPS away.Happy Sunday,Gary NelsonAKA, The Parts DocMichael,A "hunting" condition at any idle speed can be caused by a defect in the centrifugal spark advance mechanism in the distributor, usually a weak (stretched) or broken spring. Don't overlook that as a possibility after checking more obvious things that are easier to get to.---------Marshall Goodknight
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Michael Moore mmoore8425@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Chrysler 300H idle speed
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2015 10:04:51 -0700
Yes, it idles especially rough the lower it goes. It also seems to â€śhuntâ€ť between 500 and 600.I discovered a couple of vacuum leaks yesterday and thought I had fixed them by removing the base gaskets from the carburetors, cleaning them, and forming a very small (cross section-like a pencil lid) of form-a -gasket on all 8 surface and reassembled them. Itâ€™s hard to believe I still have a vacuum leak but certainly possible. There was also an old smog kit tap into the intake manifold I resealed.Thanks, MIke Moore 300HOn Oct 24, 2015, at 9:41 AM, 'Ron Waters' ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:ď»żNot sure what you mean by 'marginal'. Does the car run rough and act like it's gonna stall ? If so, I would attach a vacuum gauge to the intake and see what's going on. Problem is either a vacuum leak, or something is out of whack in your carbs. It's not Ethanol gas.Ron----- Original Message -----To: Mike MooreSent: Saturday, October 24, 2015 12:30 PMSubject: [Chrysler300] Chrysler 300H idle speedWhat idle speed are the 300H folks setting? Although my manual says 650, it sure is marginal at that speed. 800 feels better, but I donâ€™t understand what causes the difference. Ethanol?Thanks,Mike Moore300HOn Oct 24, 2015, at 7:49 AM, Robert Augliera raugliera@xxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:Does anyone have tips on replacing a windshield on a 61 Chrysler. Lots of chrome to remove.ThanksRob
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