RE: [Chrysler300] C hemi dual quad idle
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RE: [Chrysler300] C hemi dual quad idle



Hey you sound like a Ford guy..when it is very slow, you take off air cleaner, buy glass packs,  and flip over the leaf spring hangers…then have a Jack.

 

From: Ray Jones [mailto:1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Friday, November 06, 2015 7:36 PM
To: kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: John Grady; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Chouinard JY
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] C hemi dual quad idle

 

The hood pad is a silencer, which is counter productive to hearing the engine ROAR.

Not sure if it was a production item on the ram cars when built. Our experts would know.

The air cleaners are somewhat open for easier air flow and that engine ROAR. 

On my "L" the air cleaner is described as a non-silenced air cleaner, used on the HP413's only.

Ray

 

On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 5:20 PM, Keith Boonstra kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

  

The drivers side air cleaner on my C also rubbed a groove in the hood pad that another owner had installed. Maybe that's why Chrysler didn't put a pad on the '57 hoods out of the factory. 

 

Without the pad there now there's no rub, but it's really close (about 1/4"); and I know if I ever snap the left side engine mount, I'll have a pretty big zit on my hood.

 

Keith Boonstra

 

On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 5:16 PM, John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

  

More info after previous post on this issue of setting idle correctly -- or understanding intent . 
It turns out that although both idle screws are obviously there on the 2 carbs and linkage ... They are NOT to be used to set idle . The factory supplement image is marked "do not adjust" at each screw . It should say screw should not touch anything .. Or be removed . 
On these setups,only ( and not on WCFB in general ), there are two air bleed screws for idle air, like the large ones on ram cars , but these look like large mixture screws. They are on drivers side of each carb, to rear of secondary throttle shaft .The back one is hidden behind the vacuum fitting/ neutral switch . A few guys emailed me,suggestions about this setup , unaware of this idle air screw deal .. as I was too . So setting idle by front carb idle stop screw is wrong idea . But that screw will change idle . 
Further the carbs have to close 100 % or air will go by throttle plates like a normal carb at idle . On my car the fast idle cam tang when off the cam (warm engine ) was hooking under the cam end ---holding the carb from closing 100 % . I am going to add clearance there by bending or grinding end of cam disc . Then carb will close 100 % . Then air is set by bypass air screw . There is no fast idle adjustment except bending that same tab, which would hold carb open resting on cam until choke pulls off . Supposed to be about 1350 rpm. Once all this is working , balancing 2 air screws and 4 mixture screws ( count turns to start ) ought to have it idling as designed . It uses both carbs at idle . They suggest one turn open on 4 mixture screws to start . The 300 supplement explains all this , but to me anyway , is not specific about the idle screws . I have learned something here.. Want to share it . The idle screws are not idle screws . A new issue , my air cleaners are rubbing on underhood pad . That is close !! 
More later , ! Progress!! 
John
Sent from my iPhone

 






-- 

Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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