RE: [Chrysler300] ....and now for a discussion or wheel bearing races

["William Huff czbill@xxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I doubt that any bearing race could get more than a few ten thousandths
of an inch clearance before really bad things started happening, things
that would be noticeable while driving.  Given the junk I've driven
over the years I have experienced oversized wheel bearing races, usually
heat and noise eventually make themselves known.  I interpreted this
problem as being evidence of the race moving on the spindle.  If it
had been spinning on the spindle I think there would be blue marks and
the need for a new spindle.  I doubt that any difference could be
felt once the race was locked down if it was one or two ten thousandths
off center.  Tapered wheel bearings need several thousandths of
clearance in order to work anyway.  

I have used both the punch and the Loctite  methods to anchor front
wheel bearing races, mostly inner races but also some outer races. 
Both work, believe it or not.  The punch method works once, then
needs more punch marks when the bearings are changed or relubed. 
Heat is your friend using the Loctite, it will loosen its grip with
moderate heat and a few taps.  Absolutely no grease or other
contaminate when using it or it won't do its job.  I've seen similar
products used industrially when replacement parts were not
available.  Now, I'm not saying these methods equal new factory, but
they suffice pretty darned well when needed.

New drums and parts are not easy nor cheap to come by, it at all, for
many or our old cars, which is why I've been making do for years. 
If there is a source I'd love to know about it.

Bill Huff


At 03:36 PM 7/20/2016, you wrote:
>   
>
> I tend to agree with comment, however Loctite anaerobic bearing mount is
> made for this, is very good stuff. It was  once used in a factory I was
> involved with to take up manufacturing clearances, Â make assembly
> process of close fits easier. I do not recall temp range , might not be
> suitable or there might be different temp range products .Would make
> bearing one with hub but that is probably ok , both go to dumpster next
> time.
>
>  
>
> Maybe check their site, see if you feel ok. 
>
>  
>
> Not a â??do itâ?? recommendation, just information for you.
>
>  
>
> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [
> mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Lynn'
> lynnd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2016 2:57 PM
> To: Jack Boyle; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Cc: 'Joan Mabry'
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] ....and now for a discussion or wheel
> bearing races
>
>  
>
>
>
>
> I would be looking for a new hub.  There is really no way  to
> re-center the race once it has spun.  The JB Weld and Permatex
> bearing mount/ sleeve retainer will â??seatâ?? the race in the bore, but
> itâ??s not going to hold up under the weight, heat,  and torsional
> stresses the wheel and hub go through.  Itâ??s a lot like using a
> punch to â??stakeâ?? a bad bearing bore to take up the slack.  
>
>  
>
> From:
>
> mailto:Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
>
> Sent: Monday, July 18, 2016 1:49 PM
>
> To:
>
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
>
> Cc: 'Joan
> Mabry'
>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] ....and now for a discussion or wheel
> bearing race
>
>   
>
> I just had my C300 front drums turned. The machinist noted that one inner
> and another outer race can be rotated in the hub by hand. I drove the car
> 2.000 miles last year with no problem ? lucky?
>
> The bearings are only a few years old so I really ddonâ??t want to start
> over by looking for new(er) drums or hubs and new bearings again etc.
>
> Anybody have any experience setting races in JB Weld or
> similar?.
>
> thanks
>
> ?Jack
>
> Jack Boyle
> (913) 544 4650
>
> Enjoying the same C-300 since 1967
>
> IMG_0623 small
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Posted by: William Huff <czbill@xxxxxxxxxx>

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