Re: [Chrysler300] 300 G Grille Emblem
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Re: [Chrysler300] 300 G Grille Emblem





I used 3M 5200, a marine sealant to place the lens in the driving light of my L.  It allows you to work the thing into the correct place, and then holds for longer than I will own the car.  Can be obtained at any marine chandlery, or likely Amazon.com. You won’t need much.

Doug
Doug Mayer
Northport, Maine
sent from my older iMac





On Aug 10, 2016, at 5:49 PM, 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I agree with that ---but silicone is not glue, it is primarily a sealant . gap filler …..whether it bonds with any given material , or you just can peel it right off in a nice smooth sheet is my concern. Have had that happen. The weatherstrip cement stays somewhat flexible, (becomes rubber) it is a thick bodied contact cement , yes, but you get 10-20 seconds maybe more depending on how much you wait /still wet ( under your control) . I use it everywhere ( in car restoration love the stuff. Silicone as it sets gives off acetic acid, another concern….. like I said many concerns, both ways . I do agree that solvents getting at that back grey paint is an issue..try a small dab first? On the other hand if they do not bite in , you have no real bond , stuff like the emblem falls right off. 

I am only offering info…not taking any strong position beyond noting whether silicone really grabs it or you are just lucky (!) (you are) !!!! Luck plays a role?? .Probably a place for both. It (WSC) is made to bind rubber to chrome/ steel/paint on a car….= flexible . Glad no one mentioned epoxy…

From: Bob Jasinski [mailto:rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2016 4:35 PM
To: 'John Grady'; 'Val Jeffers'; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 300 G Grille Emblem

John, 

The concern I have is that weatherstrip cement is contact cement. It does not allow for adjustment once the two pieces are brought together. I would also be concerned about the solvent attacking the painted back. That's why RTV silicone works well, it stays flexible, won't attack the plastic (paint) and takes a while to cure, giving you plenty of time to step back and make sure the medallion is level and correct if needed.

Bob

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2016 1:17 PM
To: 'Val Jeffers' <edward1108@xxxxxxxxx>; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 300 G Grille Emblem

I’d go 3M “clear” (yellow) “weatherstrip cement”--- it is flexible. Like rubber cement. Follow directions..trial fit, then put some , probably in a thin ring on both surfaces let get tacky, press on. Stuff that dries or sets rock hard may crack , causing loss of emblem as plastic and metal expand differently with temp. There is probably a blob of hard stuff left behind now. I am sure there 100 opinions. Super glue is fussy stuff. I’d say that is not good. You never know if it “took off” ; also solvents in glues can attack back of emblem if lots slobbered on , = go cool and easy.

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Val Jeffers edward1108@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2016 2:38 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300 G Grille Emblem

Hi All,

What is the best way to attach the above emblem ? I have a new tube of "super glue" but wanted help first.

Thanks,

Val Jeffers

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Posted by: Doug Mayer <mobydoug@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>


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