[Chrysler300] Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Question
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[Chrysler300] Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Question





Hi To All,

Working on the tech article re Wilwood Disc Brake front and rear upgrades.

There have been requests to provide information on all brake system modifications that are necessary by a number of our members. 

Since the original conversion from the stock single bowl MC to a dual bowl was done by John Hertog, I can't address what modifications were done to the push rod but I do remember him saying he used a shorter push rod from a 1962 Chrysler on my 300-F's new master cylinder??? The MC was provided by SS Brakes and we had to use wire ties to hold the lid on because the bail would not clear the booster. Later, a special clamp was fabricated. 

Currently, we obtained a Mopar MC that totally fits and has a 1" diameter bore which I am told provides better pressure for 4 wheel disc setups. I have to get the part number. 

I see AAJ Brakes provides a modified MC with 2 side bails that fits under the power booster but the mounting holes have to be elongated to lower the MC in order to get clearance for the lid. 

The following is from Dan Reitz's tech article. Please read his remarks and share your experiences most important is what, if anything has to be done to the push rod.  

From Dan Reitz:

"I settled on a MC used in about 1969 for Barracudas and Darts. It has a very low profile but sufficient reservoir capacity to satisfy my needs. (I check the level quite often.) Also, it was originally intended for drum brakes, but the removal of the residual valve in the outlet for the front brakes converts it to a disc brake MC. This I did by tapping the copper seat and pulling it out using a screw and pliers. The residual valve comes right out; the seat is then replaced. 

The MC is only 7” in length overall and provides sufficient clearance between it and the carb/ram setup. It installs very easily by tilting the front end down beneath the carb and sliding it back over the mounting studs. The only modification I had to do to the original components was to grind about 0.001 off the circumference of the push rod where it enters the MC. The hole in the MC was just a bit too small. I decided to modify the push rod slightly rather than drill the hole in the MC larger because if I ever needed to replace the MC out on the highway, the new one would drop in without modification."


Thanks,

Tony Rinaldi



Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


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Posted by: Tony Rinaldi <awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx>


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