That is exactly right. John Veach did the clear part.
Best, Mike Moore
You are thinking of John Veach It has since cracked in 2 places, my fault for not taking it off in the winter. Still looks OK though, to me at least.
I don’t know, I did mine in the late 80’s when there was a man in Texas who was recasting the clear part for a low price. I wanted to do the rest myself after I bought the Eastwood booklet on steering wheel restoration. I thought I would have to fake the transparent part with some sort of simulated transparent-looking (silver?) paint when his ad appeared in a club newsletter. Seems like I paid a few hundred dollars for the clear part. The book recommends PC& by the way, but start working it before it fully sets up. Good luck!
Speaking of steering wheel restoration, who is the best ? My G's wheel is in need.
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
On Wednesday, September 21, 2016, 8:46 AM, Michael Moore mmoore8425@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I did the same thing with my 300H after I had the clear part recast. It looked great, in fact I had my spare done also. My PV-7 cracked in a couple of places several years later, so I put my spare on, and fixed the cracked one.Theone on now has held up for 20 years. Even if the PV7 cracks every 5 years, it’s not that tough to patch and repaint. I was in the same position when I built my 300H. I repaired a Newport wheel using a two-part epoxy. JB Weld works but it is too viscous and will run out of the cracks before it is set up. I used PC7. It's a two part epoxy, exactly like JB Weld, but is a thicker paste (if you insist on using JB Weld, you will wish you bought the PC7). PC7 comes in 2 cans taped together, from your local hardware store. Clean and prepare the wheel with a cleaner and some light sand paper. Make sure there's no dirt or scale in the cracks. Mix up the epoxy and push it into all the cracks. They tell you to use a putty knife, but I just used my wet fingers. Oh, and it's very important to make sure your fingers are wet. Have a cup or bowl of water with you and keep your fingers wet or else the epoxy will stick to your fingers for about two weeks. So with wet fingers, you can form and shape the epoxy to the contour of the wheel. With wet fingers, smooth out the epoxy to match the form o f the wheel. Let the epoxy set up over night. Next day, sand it smooth and paint the wheel the desired color. You will be so happy with the outcome, you may never spend the $1500 for a restored wheel.
From: Sandy Beard ssbeard2015@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: chrysler300 <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wed, Sep 21, 2016 7:30 am
Subject: [Chrysler300] Steering wheel repair
Good morning 300 ites. For those going to the fall meets east and west, drive safe and have 300 fun. Need to do some repair on my F steering wheel. The wheel is cracked in several places. can't afford a new one at this time( $1500 ouch). Anyone have some ideas/ suggestions on temporary repair that looks good. Also looking to know what engine a 4 barrel intake manifold dated 1958 might have come off of. looks smaller then a big block manifold.
Posted by: Michael Moore <mmoore8425@xxxxxxx>
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