Hi Rich and Harry , just to add to an excellent explanation , NEVER ever wiggle the connector of the plastic hoses side to side at the switch trying to get it apart as that WILL break off the tiny nipples ..... happens all the time to first timers. It gets stuck -- nipples very fragile . you might need tools with a prying motion on each side of block to make it move in a line straight back , or remove whole button assembly with hoses still on it if possible . Have to do that anyway to separate switch from metal . And separate block carefully straight back where you can get at it
I am not sure if j and K same as 60-62 but we have been fixing those 60-62 for 15 years. Maybe someone knows that interchange? I think they are the same . We made new CNC Delrin engineering plastic sliding cams and use small brass tubes epoxied on if a few broken nipples . Switch has to be not badly melted on the side ( another electrical problem.. poor spring tension on contacts inside ) discoloration ok but no melt . Adding relays for fan is smart if feeling ambitious. AC and not are different switches and cams . The stock cams are like hard Masonite or thick "fish paper" and wear out rapidly as the grease softens them to mush over time , the buttons become hard to push and other button does not pop out right . In Harry's case probably damage to feed hose at manifold under hood .. I hope . Cost to open and rebuild is 85- 120 depending on broken nipples . Save old cores , we have paid 15 each to salvage nipple block with no --or one / two broken and no melt . Often have a few rebuilt from cores in house around 175 . Beyond that number of nipples gets dicey to fix but can be done . Most cores have broken nipples due to wiggling .
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O&M instructions for the air distribution controls system are found in the service manual on pages 24-23 to 24-25. http://www.jholst.net/64-service-manual/air-conditioning.pdf The three dampers or baffles are called “doors” and are opened and closed by vacuum. The vacuum distribution system center is a white plastic block on the back of the heater-A/C control module. (Fig. 28-control switch). Pushing each of the five control buttons switches the vacuum to one side or the other of the diaphragm in the three metal vacuum chambers that actuate the doors. There are seven rubber hoses bound together in a connector that plugs on to the back of the white plastic control switch. One of the hoses is connected to engine vacuum and the other six hoses go to each side of the three actuator cans. One to open and another to close that door. The white plastic control box has seven tiny plastic nipples projecting from its back, over which the seven-hose connector fits. These nipples are pretty delicate and may have been broken off by a previous mechanic. If this is happened you might find a real clever way to repair a broken nipple, but you are more likely going to need to go shopping for a replacement control switch. The white plastic control switch, itself, can be removed and replaced. Wires to the blower and A/C compressor clutch are also fastened to the control switch and pushing the various buttons will also control the A/C clutch.
With the engine running, pressing each of the five buttons on the HVAC control module should cause the various doors to open and close. The blower is controlled by pulling out or pushing in the temperature control lever. With A/C you should have three fan speeds. If pressing the five buttons does not actuate any of the doors you may have inadequate manifold vacuum or a cracked or disconnected vacuum hose that provides source vacuum to the white control block. One of the actuators can be viewed by removing the outside cowl fresh air inlet cover. Another actuator is mounted to outside top of the heater box under the hood and the third is mounted inside and under the dash. You can view the opening and closing of several of these door actuators fairly easily.
The five buttons on my control module require a pretty stiff push to go all the way in and cause the doors to open and close. Anyone been successful at lubing these plastic parts for easier & smoother action? I don’t want to dissolve the plastic block or gum up what I assume are sliding plates inside the block.
Good luck. Heater-Defrost, at least, season is upon us.
Brentwood, CA (43F @ midnight—finally had to turn the furnace on--only pushbuttons are on the digital thermostat)
I have a 1964 300K, my sero vacuum system for heater AC does not work, does anyone know how to fix it and know were its located?
Posted by: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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