Keith, you are really right about white lube or “lubriplate” ; IMHO useless bad stuff that gets as hard as a rock ; I used it as an x ray service person in mid 60’s (it was in the Picker X ray tool bag kit) ---we had big trouble with it solidifying in critical places even then. And later , restoring 300’s found it smeared all over door latches , window lifts , seat tracks etc--- all frozen --with like white / yellow tar. . I know others love it, good luck. Unequivocally junk to me. I use simple high quality cartridges of front end suspension grease, had same red and silver tube meant for the old smaller Alemite guns for years ---with a flat stick, and a toothpick in it. Looks like the day I opened it in ~ 1980. . excellent for small gearboxes etc where you might think lubriplate. I also use 75W Mobil rear axle oil, 100% synthetic, instead of greases where you need oil that flows and yet stays. Like e brake cables, shift cables , door hinges etc “oil can stuff” And 10W ‘turbine oil” for light stuff, like speedo head. Butcher’s Bowling alley wax is good stuff too. I agree wheel bearing grease is good too but it has fibers in it, do not need that , right? Probably adds friction to things that have or need low forces. All these weird things with silicone , solvents, aerosols, etc and fancy names are mostly come ons. Oil is best, and is not snake oil. I am sure this discussion goes back to Rome and who had the best axle fat. Listening to the guy selling better water at 2-3x the price is usually bad news.
BS does baffle brains….for a while.
White lithium is one of the poorest lubricants overall in my experience. It works fine when first applied, but it dries over time into a very hard stinky cake that has to be chiseled off when you go to figure out why the window gear works so hard. My favorite in the past for a lubricant that I want to hold its qualities in many applications is wheel bearing grease. It seems to adhere tenaciously to the parts, and maintains its ability to coat and make parts slide on each other for decades.
That said, your question inspired me to Google, and that led me to learn of a product I had never heard of before. It's called "Fluid Film". It seems to have great cred in the marine industry. and sure seems like it would do an excellent job of maintaining its lubricity characteristics over time. Interestingly, it is largely an organic - lanolin from wool - rather than being a petroleum-based formula with VOCs that dry out over time. Looks like it's widely available - Advance Auto, Carquest, John Deere, etc. Did any of you 300 folks ever use Fluid Film, and is it as great as the testimonials would indicate?
Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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