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I have one of Les’ drum pullers and totally agree. It looks a little crude but is made in the USA out of US Steel plate and bolts, is “heck” for stout and should last forever. It works by applying force to all five lugs or lug bolts and is a reasonable investment. I always try to remember to urge caution as the tightening of the five lugs creates a lot of stored energy that will manifest itself in the launching of the drum and puller toward the technician. To protect family treasure, place the castle nut onto the axle end, castellated end toward the drum and threaded onto the axle end until all the threads of the nut are engaged. There will still be a big bang, but the drum will stop against the castle nut—instead of the other nut! Rich Barber Brentwood CA (Headed for 110F today, but not complaining. We used to live in NE Houston and experienced a devastating 12” rain. 30-40” is unimaginable. Hoping all of our friends made it to high ground and took their 300’s with them.) From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Michael Moore mmoore8425@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Les Fairbanks hub puller is a jewel. I know folks who have replaced the rear axle to get rid of the tapered hubs, The Fairbanks puller makes it so easy it just is not a problem. If you are working in that area, I have to share this: I was having a hard time after the drum was off the axle removing the axle from the axle housing, Someone suggested I place the drum back on the axle after I removed the backing plate, shoes etc , then put a washer and the axle nut back and use the drum as a slide hammer. It worked, but it took such force that it forced the nut past the threads-stripped off the threads on the nut and the axle . I had to get two new axles. I don’t know what the answer is, but that wasn’t it. I did something wrong, Mike Moore 300H On Aug 26, 2017, at 9:41 PM, 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: Glad to have you focused on your 300! Wheel & tire data for all letter cars: http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/tire/tire2.html Rear drums are on tapered axles and will be difficult to remove. Great tool: http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/fairbanks/puller.html Stud bolts on LH side are LH threads. Tiniest cleanup cut only on drums to maximize remaining life of scarce drums. NAPA parts for your G: http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/napaparts/gparts.htm &nb sp; Rich Barber Brentwood, CA From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Michael Ashmore' michael.ashmore@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] < div id="ygrp-text"> Hi All, Now that I've sold my 61 Corvette my 61 300G gets all the attention! Questions 1. What width size whitewall did the 300G come with? I'm planning on buying Coker radials, The stock size was 8.00 - 15. Would that equate to 225 70R-15? 2. I also need to do the brakes from stem to stern. I was going to use NAPA for most of the parts. Comments? Recommendations? Has anyone used s/s brake lines from Good Brakes or Brake Hoses Unlimited on EBay? Thanks, Mike 300G Barn Find __._,_.___ Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang __,_._,___ |
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