I have no technical words of advice to offer, but I will be a cheerleader.I recall a trip of 200 miles I took in my C in the summer of 2016 when the temperature was over 95, the sun was blazing, the humidity was in the 90s, and I got caught in construction traffic jambs. I had put in a recored radiator (of unknown composition) in 2011, I have the factory fan shroud, and everything else in the cooling system is factory except for a temp-controlled fan clutch. I ran my A/C with its big ole RV-2 compressor full-bore that day, but the temp gauge hardly budged over center.All I'm saying is keep working at it, and stay with the factory setup. Those engineers were pretty good at their craft. Get all of it right and to spec and you will eventually win.Keith Boonstra-On Sun, Oct 29, 2017 at 10:44 PM, Steve Albu saforwardlook@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@
yahoogroups.com> wrote:I would agree with John, but maybe a 3 row high fin density core would work fine without going to a 4 row if your cooling issues are generally only in low speed traffic. If you are having issues with higher speed cooling as well, then a 4 row would definitely be advised. Generally low speed cooling requires a large frontal area and high fin density whereas high speed cooling requires more rows of fins as well. I personally would go to a reputable radiator shop with my original radiator and have them put in a new high efficiency core.On Sun, Oct 29, 2017 at 2:24 PM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:Second that . Need 4 row core and they cost $!. A 3 row “rated 4row “ is not the same . Has to be radiator — if all that is new and on correctly? Not sure why anyone would cut the shroud? It was designed correctly , if the original one? Have to have that right . A front fan should not be needed , all this worked stock without it , and might not help as ac core is a distance in front of cooling core. Plus it blocks air flow some in center where motor is . Plus they take 20- 25-amp . The car alternator will not like that with Ac system running ,In Mopar magazine , the one out of New Orleans, someone advertises newly made Mopar radiators including 4 row for restoration , mainly geared to big hemi etc . But says real 4 row, but almost 1000. I think all of them use similar cores in the large sizes , within # of tube rows .Big $— but used or old is a crap shoot ... ??I had electric , only, on a 480” non ac 440, it overheated even at idle . Went back to pump mounted , not finished yet , used a flex fan . ( due to lack of knowledge and cost about various clutch fans and ac fan , which I think has 7 blades, but not sure of that either) . If you have all original ac stuff it should work , if radiator good. Hope this helpsSent from my iPhone
Having a "new radiator" doesn't mean anything. What matters is whether you have a core in it that has very high fin density. If you didn't pay somewhere in the $500 range out the door for it, it doesn't. Nothing else substitutes for a good radiator. A standard replacement is junk. I live in California where temperatures are well above 95F much of the time, so I have some experience with a/c cars.SteveOn Sun, Oct 29, 2017 at 11:08 AM, thomas tibbie ttibbie@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@yahoogrou
Hi everyone, I'm back on the same subject over heating on my 300G with A/C, with new radiator, recovery tank and new clutch fan. I live in the San Antonio Texas area and during the summer months when our temperatures reach 95 degrees + I have an over heating problems. If the temperatures stay below 90 degrees no problem. The radiator shroud has been cut back so the fan is not covered by the shroud. So I'm looking for radiator shroud that will fit the 300G. One other question has anyone used an electric fan in front of the A/C radiator to help cooling problems? Thanks
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