There is one final link in this set up and that is the curved angle of the rod that holds the float. When you check the resistance on the bench of the sending unit you would have unlimited movement and the extreme full/empty readings should be correct, 75-15 ohms ~. When you install the sending unit inside the tank and button everything up and fill the tank hopefully the gauge will read full. The first time we did this we had to adjust the rod to just touch the top of the tank to read correctly. Took a slight adjustment to get this right since the gauge read 3/4 full when the tank was really full. The rod was too straight and the float hit the top of the tank before the tank was really full. Just added a bit more bend to the rod and was able to get this right. Unfortunately you cannot remove the sending unit with a full tank and will have to drain down to about half full and start over. Have done this three times thru the years. A 12 v transfer pump helped in this process and filling and unloading the tank was fairly simple. The third Chinese made sending unit came with gaskets that were not usable. Found a gasket/nut set on line or $6.00 PPD. that worked beautifully. The last time the hole for the sending unit was corroded enough to not stop a leak and also added a new tank to the process. Once we also found that the connection to the sending unit for the blue wire was rusty and had to be cleaned up and replaced with a SS nut instead of the plastic plug connector. John Holst..
I once read online that all the old Beast drivers usually carried 3-5 gallons of fuel in a trunk can because you were never sure what the gauge said was correct.
On 1/6/2018 8:01 AM, John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] wrote:
Posted by: John Holst <jholst@xxxxxxxxx>
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