RE: [Chrysler300] Ignition switch 4 300G + labor time...
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RE: [Chrysler300] Ignition switch 4 300G + labor time...





Bb:

 

Well written.  I thought Brandt might need a little more detail and encouragement.  We both know he can do it.

 

Brandt:

 

As this appears to be your first time working on an ignition switch, here are a few tips.

First, make sure the switch is faulty by careful diagnosis of the problem, especially if it is electrical.  If the problem is mechanical with the lock/tumbler being worn and sloppy—or if you have lost the key, you will need to flush and lube or replace the lock/tumbler assembly—possibly back into the existing switch body if it is OK mechanically and electrically.  You want to keep the original key and tumbler if possible so as to have the same key for the doors and ignition.

  • As with all electrical work, its always a good idea to disconnect the battery by removing one of the cables.
  • Removal of the switch can start with removal of the five-wire connector from the back of the switch.  This might be easier while the switch is still fastened in the dash.
  • Remove the key and unscrew the bezel using the small tips of a pair of needle-nose pliers inserted in the two holes in the bezel. And twisting counter-clockwise.  I usually fabricate a small tool to fit these holes by using a length of coat hanger wire bent into a “U”—the tips of which fir the two holes.  After removal of the bezel, the switch can be removed from the back.
  • It may be more convenient to remove the electrical connector from the back of the switch AFTER removal of the bezel.

 

You may want to test the removed switch at this point.  The five lugs are usually marked on the back of the switch as shown below.

  • ACC (this feeds all ‘switched” electrical devices such as turn signals, wipers, radio, heater fan, gauges &etc.  Power flows identically with key I Accessory position or Run position).)
  • ST (for start-sends +12VDC to starter relay)
  • BAT (+12VDC comes in here)
  • IGN1 (Routes +12VDC direct to coil when starting)
  • IGN2 (Routes +12VDC to a dropping resistor on the firewall for power to the coil at a reduced voltage)

 

Use an ohm-meter or other electrical continuity tester to check the following continuities of the removed switch.  If all are as noted, your problem may be a worn tumbler or in the wiring.  If the problem is just sticky tumbler and key-action, you or a locksmith can flush the pin and spring areas and all parts of the tumbler with solvent and re-lube with appropriate lube-such as graphite or clock oil.

 

  • Key removed or in neutral straight-up position:  No continuity between lugs.
  • Key turned counter clockwise to the left: BAT to ACC , only.
  • Key turned clockwise to the right-first notch: BAT to ACC & BAT to IGN1.
  • Key turned counter clockwise to the far right-start position: BAT to ACC & BAT to IGN2ACC is disconnected while starting.

 

 

Your new ignition switch will probably have an additional spade marked GRD.  Your five-wire connector will not engage this spade but will still fit, so just ignore this small difference.

 

Remove the lock/tumbler assembly from the old switch using the method Bob describes below.  Clean, flush and relube.  Remember, nearly 60 years of fine brass dust and old hard lube may be in the lock from the wear from the keys.  Save the tumbler if you can. 

Install the lock/tumbler in the new switch.  You may have to depress the release pin slightly to start the assembly into the switch body.  Have the key in the switch as you may have to rotate the key to allow the tumbler to slide all the way in to its proper place in the base of the switch..

 

Go for it, Brandt—and let us know how you fared.  Labor time—one hour if all goes well.  Not much to go wrong.  Second time will only require half the time.

 

Rich Barber

Brentwood, CA  (Fall not here yet—still hot & dry)

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of 'Bob Jasinski' rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2018 2:15 PM
To: brandt300g@xxxxxxxxx; 'Chrysler 300 List' <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Ignition switch 4 300G + labor time...

 

 

Brandt,

 

I replaced the ignition switch in my G about a year ago.  It was fairly easy to do and I don’t remember having to remove much, maybe the panel under the instruments, but I think I had that off already for the other work I was doing.  Anyway, wiggle the back of the connector to unplug the wiring harness and unscrew the bezel from the front.  There is a light bulb fixture that is part of the mount you’ll also have to deal with, it all fits together.  I was able to get one from the local parts store, it is used for a number of years.  As I recall, the new one had an extra terminal that was unused for my year but the connector fit just fine. As far as the key goes, they are sold without the key tumbler, you reuse your old one, which is removed by pushing in the spring pin on the side of the old switch with the key in place, and the whole tumbler pulls out..  Slip it into the new switch and it will lock in place same as the old switch.  Reinstall through the light bulb fixture and tighten, then reconnect the wiring from behind.  The light only comes on when the switch is in the first pull out position as I recall.

 

Bob J

 

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Brandt Jimerson brandt300g@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2018 12:36 PM
To: Chrysler 300 List <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Chrysler300] Ignition switch 4 300G + labor time...

 

 

Hello to everyone in 300sville!!

Say, I need to know the best price and/ or availability route for an ignition switch with key already fitting properly inside to operate.

My second question would be about the labor time to replace a G ignition switch.

Thank you!!

Brandt Jimerson,

300G (Melisa)



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Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>


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