Re: [Chrysler300] Power Seat for G

i think “timing “ means both sides in actuators are in exact same place when you assemble it .. so both sides of frame will move the seat in exact sync . Each clutch itself just connects the motor to the selected drive pair . no timing to that ?

yes old grease gets hard —really screws up clutch mechanism , why I was in it .It has to move freely in clutch or does not click in to work . might look like bad coil ( assume your coil was actually open circuit? with ohmmeter ? )

I have become a big fan of Mobil 1 75-90 synthetic axle lube instead of grease . very heavy oil stays put . mine worked perfectly after cleaning and lubing with that . can drip oil into the cross tubing too, held correctly yes bolts are overly long , no spacers to my knowledge . on any of

mine.. but possibly for very short person you could do that. Why long?

i drilled new holes at times in floor — moved seat back ( i am big guy , wanted more room , have to check comnsoke clearances . i forget details , 1-2”

—- almost always the studs rust and break off . i have also gone up in size of bolt and we added welded reinforcing to that tab, as original design is pretty flimsy . your call . —- might be smart to use stainless bolts too .. large washers under floor . Thinking retaining it properly in accident .. ( arrgh)

hope this helps ,

j
PS on seat .. may look like switch is bad . it is not . work back and forth vigorously — it fixes itself . really rugged design inside , but sliding style contacts get dirty .

Sent from my iPhone not by choice

On 27 Oct 2020, at 11:43 am, Loren Nelson lorenhelenn@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I got the solenoid to repair my seat from Murry Park and am ready to install it. The FSM said to not run the motor without the cables engaged to prevent loss of timing. It does not say how to get back in time if the timing is lost. My seat has been running without one cable engaged for 40+ years. It goes back and forth and up and down but does not tilt. My first thought was to put it in mid-range for both, before disassembly to install the new coil and hope that the coil failed there to get it somewhere near in time. Is there a better way to do this?

The FSM does not mention any maintenance for the mechanism. It seems to me that after 60 years that some lubrication may be required. Does anyone have suggestions?

Also, all but one of the eight mounting studs twisted off when the seat was removed. I have drilled out and tapped the holes for new studs. The remaining stud was about one and one half inches long, much longer than required for bolting through the floor. did the seat frame sit on standoffs?

Thank You for the help,
Loren Nelson in N. Georgia

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Posted by: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

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