| Yes — for ? 60 up ? 300’s with the place to put a locating rod through the pivot on firewall that is a huge help ( ram cars , maybe more?) as that sets the relationship at time zero of the throttle opening (carb rod pull travel ) to the firewall bell crank angle at idle . And thus the eventual length of that carb rod ,and so the angles / travel it goes through . You can have correct pedal angle and yet rod from pedal to to that firewall pivot too long or too short on early cars ( still “works “) and carb rod then wrong too. But now you will have a lot of trouble with the rate of movement and total travel of the throttle pressure rod ( kickdown rod ) . Long ago we went through , and never got a straight answer — why some later 727 mopar have a spring and slip joint in that trans rod? And they moved the end up to carb . Allows for over travel(!) ,—that implies it moves faster toward high trans pressure too, before WOT , = higher shift points . ( we like that ?) Slant six has that spring too , with cable throttle. With that , high trans pressure happens at ?80% of WOT .= good . But our earlier cars are designed right without that , as they do work ok.
-- I think relates to the following : I always found FSM instructions confusing . (on ours) . It is most important ( imho ) that the wide open throttle of carb happens as trans lever hits max travel pretty exactly ( or your trans pressure is not max) but I believe ( some) manuals sort of tell you to set at idle . ( “hold all the way against stop” ( which end stop?) and WOT at trans has a springy end spot. You need to compress that trans spring at WOT . sometimes you do that as directed and then shift speeds are off , or carb does not reach WOT before trans jams it. Or opposite. This ? is then compounded by where the bell crank on firewall actually is compared to the pedal hitting floor and how thick the carpet under it .I have spent hours fighting this crazy thing on 57 especially ; = to me a dumb design with the three variables ( and I think why the bell crank locating rod and hole was added ) . usually what matters at the end — the most important — is the throttle opening and transmission are right ,together , at WOT — and idle place ok too . the pedal angle can then be slightly fudged to match . How stiff the return spring is gets into it too and how hooked on. many of our original springs are gone . I have used late hemi concentric springs , readily available, but you often need to add an “ extension link “ as ends are too short for some of ours . Problem there shows up as not returning solidly to the idle cam . Wandering idle or Trans holding idle return . Or , you see over-stretching some universal spring not applied right . I like the dual springs after a friend totaled a perfect 440 road runner after the spring end snapped off right near his house . If you nick a spring wire at all by bending the hooks and ends with a plier you start a fatigue crack and it will break right there a some finite number of cycles . Bend with long nose with rag wrapped around it or plastic jaws etc . No nicks! Good question — with a lot of minute hassles to it, !!! especially if it was taken all apart as part of restoring it .— measuring another car where bell crank sits off the firewall at idle is a big help if no locating holes . And check the FSM torqueflite up shift speeds and carb WOT . Sent from my iPhone not by choice
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