| Along those lines they are all pretty fussy at first as carb heat is not there , sort of nature of the beast and that actual warning to buyer is in the owner’s manual . That said , many rams were pulled off 300 F and G due to expectations by many customers of Cadillac type smoothness from “ the best Chrysler “ —from the instant of starting. That is not happening . Cam timing too enters this. And thus a need for high idle . That can cause slight slam at engagement or stall , even if otherwise running right for performance once warm . They also dropped it completely in 62 over some of this . Unhappy buyers. When it came back in 63-64 it had manual chokes (!) . And was geared more strongly to performance market than luxury , so a drop in sales. 300L really more like a NY er . lesson learned ( which choice I do not like but sold more cars) . As Bob says — following the factory set up is crucial to getting essentially two 4 cylinder motors running exactly the same . Golden screwdriver Chevy mechanics cannot get there . Really . What goes wrong are frozen / unequal heat riser valves , vacuum leaks ( can behind the headlights) and air and mixture adjustments not exactly the same by counting turns to fractions , plug wire melts, misadjusted points ( use dwell meter ) and bad replacement capacitors from China with intermittent internal connections , carb rebuilds with wrong float levels . My list , anyway . Hope it helps ..
-- Sent from my iPhone not by choice I’m probably “preaching to the choir” here, but setting up the ram manifold linkage and carbs to run well relies on following the procedure outlined in the factory service manual. Once done, if problems persist, start looking at individual components for the culprit. Bob J From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Tim He all, I have a 300G and it starts fine, but really really runs rough for the first 3-4 minutes; rough running, kills, wont hold idle; a little surging….then seems to plane out and be fine. Im not a real gear head (lol) but maybe send me and my mechanic down the right diagnostic path? Thanks Tim -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/03f801d741d4%242c3daa70%2484b8ff50%24%40comcast.net. For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/E8188DAC-DB9E-40B8-B3EB-84DDC02962DE%40gradyresearch.com. |
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