Re: {Chrysler 300} fuel gauge differences between 55 and 56``
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Re: {Chrysler 300} fuel gauge differences between 55 and 56``



while 55 - 56 is a little out of my wheelhouse , 57 gauges are non thermal — they have wound magnetic coils ; two coils inside are arranged differentially so steady 12 pulls one way and variable pulls other way ( toward high end ) This is done so changes in the 12 v impact each coil the same and not change the reading . 56 probably the same . 
I would expect 12 v gauges would have coil resistance 2x 6 volt ? for ID — also gauge case must be grounded for this to work right . The only way to correctly use 6v gauges on 12 volts is to add an electronic 3 terminal 6 volt chip regulator ( about size of postage stamp not the tiny ones) and run all of them on 6 volts . resistors or regulators from later thermal type gauges will not work . 
I want to add i have no experience with 55-56 , but do on 57 and the above comes from EE perspective . But caveat is I have not personally worked on 56. Resistors in each 6v gauge will give inaccurate readings . 
——- or go to all 3 12 v gauges based on resistance of terminal to case ground . 12 should be higher ohms although slight chance they used the same due to balance action . I doubt that . Let us know ohms of gauges , good info for web site 
thanks ,
John 
Sent from my iPhone not by choice 

On 8 May 2021, at 12:17 am, Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> wrote:

 

Jack:

I can’t help much with the gauges but note that the license-plate lamp is powered by a single wire emanating from the taillight/stoplight/backup lamp loom in the trunk. The Service Manual indicates the wire begins at a junction of the wires to the two taillight lamps. This junction is near the LH taillight assembly.  If both taillight lamps light up, the power should be getting to the license-plate lamp socket unless the single wire is broken (possible as the end of the license-plate wire lives outside).  After that, the socket and ground are suspect.  The equivalent 12-Volt lamp would be a 67. If it wasn’t changed out, the 6-Volt 63 was probably toasted.

 

The wire to the tank sending unit also emanates from the same wiring loom in the trunk and runs across the trunk floor to the sending unit.  Getting a good ground to the base of the sending unit can be problematic.  I had a small threaded stud brazed to the base and connected a ground wire to it and a solid chassis ground.

 

You might ship your collection of gauges to www.JCAuto.com  for inspection, repair and calibration.

 

All the best,

Rich Barber

Brentwood CA

 

 

 

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of jackcboyle@xxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 7:14 PM
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: {Chrysler 300} fuel gauge differences between 55 and 56``

 

I just finished installing a new YnZ wiring harness in my C300. Every wire is new from head light to tail light. Happily everything works except the fuel gauge and the license plate light. The fuel gauge does not budge with my old sending unit in the car nor does it budge with a new 12v sending unit (grounded).

 

My car has been converted to 12v for over 50 years and I am trying to put a ’56 gauge and sending unit in for accuracy.

 

I have an assortment of gauge clusters but I can’t be certain which is ‘56/12v.

 

The five fuel gauges are at 12 o’clock in the photo. Some were labeled but I am very SKEPTICAL of the accuracy.

 

Thanks for any help.

 

<image001.jpg>

 

 

Jack Boyle

(913) 544 4650

 

Enjoying the same C-300 since 1967

<image002.jpg>

 

 

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