If it turns out to be a faulty power pack, as John stated it is usually easy to fix. If the capacitor is original assume it is bad or going bad – just replace it. The transformer and transistor are often fine and dandy. It will be far more work to remove and replace the powerpack than it is to fix it. We have a page on the Club website for this: Panelescent Instrument Panel and Electroluminescent Power Supply Repair (chrysler300club.com) Carl B. From: John Grady actually not bad to fix, other than dash access if it comes to that . G sometimes has a small in line fuse tied to harness behind the directional switch to protect dimmer switch resistor in headlight switch from shorts in the EL lighting power pack . It is not usually on print . F does not have it . check if 12 v lights work (located in heater switch , TF push buttons , — work dimmer back and forth on headlight switch . if 12 v regular lights will only come on at one end dimmer has been hurt . Sometimes just intermittent, dirty — work back and forth a lot fixes it . But leave at there ( full on) to troubleshoot EL with those 12 v lights full on . If they don’t work = 12 v problems not EL problem — as EL power supply runs off same dash light 12 v dc( orange wires) . if the 12 v lamps work , may be defective EL power supply , located over driver kick panel way up . 2 wire connector ,orange 12 v in 250 white ac out . ( some occasionally have other colors) 250 in dash harness is usually white wires, red plastic connectors . the capacitor inside the power supply fails , easy fix , should change it anyway . Radio shack , order from mouser , or ham radio guy . White cylinder . Any short in any gauge will kill all of them , kills the 250 ac . So if all is working , 250 ac coming out of power supply , when not connected to car white wires, have to unplug one gauge at a time to find shorted one ( arrgh) , the rest will immediately light up . Probably will have to send a bad gauge to gauge guy , there is one in club . fine wires connect needles to ac , they break off . Can touch ground etc Can get to most of this test through lower cover under speedo dome . Electrical guy might be more help than mechanic if it gets dicey ! Tach and clock and radio have the white wire feeding in too . Best of luck , John G Sent from my iPhone not by choice
I need to diagnose why my dash luminescence is not operating. I'm not doing it myself, but asking my local mechanic. I have the Shop Manuals. Am I over optimistic that I can tell him to use the manuals to troubleshoot and diagnose? I know its prolly not a short email answer on 'how to do it'....but any advice, warnings, encouragements or otherwise comments? Thx Tim 61 G convert -- -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/60ac2fe9.1c69fb81.5b06f.4d1dSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING%40gmr-mx.google.com. |
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap