| agree totally on that , you have to shine bottom of pins and copper where they touch and solder pins to trace . over time the board shrinks I think and the riveted connection loses its tightness . All mopar dash boards do this , especially dart and barracuda .
If not really clean and shiny ( razor knife tip ) solder will not “ take” and you make a big mess including lifting the traces off board Sent from my iPhone not by choice Just throwing this out there, but I have also found that dash lighting problems on 63-64s can be due to insufficient electrical contact at the multi-pin (5-pin?) connector to the instrument cluster which provides power to everything. Improper electrical contact at one or more pins could, possibly, cause a “dead” gauge…. Something to also check. 👍
Respectfully, dave Sent from my iPhone
Dear all,
thank you for the great advices, i will try to figure out with the IR tester and get more relaxed with the indication at normal running situation :)
follow some history to my temp-gauge case: i found out my old tempsensor did not work after repair of the board, where no indicators worked, except alternator ( i had a repair on lighting of board, oilpressure lamp, temp and gasoline gauge) then i bought
from rockauto new temp sensor and fuel sending unit; at least temp gauge went now alive as described; which means voltage regulator at gasoline gauge in the board should work ; unfortunately gasoline gauge has no life, i measeured all cables and tried with
new and old fuel sendign unit , so far now show.... i keep trying and testing, also will get an new el. generator as the needle balance a lot in alternator gauge, showing, that alternator = generator has passed away; must be a defect of regulator/diode inside
generator.
best regards and keep running
Johannes
What John said, plus noting as stated earlier in the thread that the sending units can have a huge impact on gauge reading. John as the EE can provide more detail but basically, high resistance in the sending unit = less current flow = lower gauge reading,
and vice versa. The gauge just registers the current flow assuming constant voltage (from the voltage limiter in the fuel gauge on 63-64; after 57 years the limiter may not work properly either). Higher resistance when cold and lower resistance when hot.
I have found that the aftermarket sending units for 63-64 seem to have incorrect resistance when hot (resistance too low= more current flow = high gauge reading). You can add resistance in series to get a lower gauge reading for some level of comfort, but
what really matters is the actual engine temp – always test with IR gun!
With original factory sending units and 180 stat, the reading on the gauge on 63-64 was supposed to be between the beginning of the “box with the line” and the halfway point when at 180 to 190 degrees or so.
Carl Bilter
hi ,
they are inherently not accurate things . once you get used to your car , where it runs is “normal “.
The idea is if you notice a change in that normal position check why . more modern cars are digital / accurate and pretty
close .. we get used to that .
Check temp at thermostat housing with IR gun .. not expensive and easy , then you know about where 180 or 190 is , on gauge , all is ok .
inaccurate thermal style gauges generally are more of a problem with fuel , such as where is really empty ?
Sent from my iPhone not by choice
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