Use an compressed air powered power bleeder. Remember that you should never over-stroke a master, easy to do while bleeding by foot, easy to blow the seal. Did the rebuilder give any warnings? Over-stroke a Treadle-Vac and its done. Did you bench bleed the masters before mounting? You can prove the master is good or bad by bleeding it & plugging it with the plastic plug they shipped it back with. If pedal sinks the master seal is blown. Otherwise I think you still have air in there.
Danny Plotkin
From: 'John W Sager' via Chrysler 300 Club International [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2022 10:21 AM
To: CAROLL RIPLEY <ripinator@xxxxxxxxxxx>; John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Mike Cortel <toy72456@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300K Ram Brake Problems
Rip, I bought one of these a few years ago and it's been one of my better investments. Just use a c-clamp to hold the top onto the master rather than their Mickey Mouse chain setup.
John
On Tuesday, May 10, 2022, 08:45:25 AM EDT, 'Mike Cortel' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Thanks, John, Yes I do agree that having a second person at the pedal isn't the best method. We have had a few words ourselves :)
I believe I am going to look into a pressure bleeder as the first step. I have heard that the truck repair shops can be very familiar with this type of booster but Power Brake Exchange was a recommendation and at the time I was traveling to Pittsburgh for work.
Mike Cortel
On Tuesday, May 10, 2022, 07:52:58 AM EDT, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi , it may sound crazy but having your wife in a tough position ( correctly using pedal ) can be part of it ! Been there , led to a , er, “heated discussion” . Long ago but still —-
Have to really understand the goal .
It is almost human nature to let up on the pedal a bit after doing what you say , after pushing smoothly down it can draw fluid or air back in —if timing of you at wheel cylinder drain valve and her at pedal is at all off.
Don’t laugh , happened to me.
In my case , add in silicone fluid a bear to bleed in the first place , if it gets agitated in the catch bottle or before you pour in you are done for .
I also agree — lacking any leaks ,— if pedal goes slowly down your master is not good. However on J,K you essentially have two masters .
They are a bear if booster not built right
. Competence matters . I tried myself with a kit , failed to get it right , someone had been in before me and I put it back together same way replicating a mistake they made .
The solution was discovering that these are common ( larger size vacuum can) on medium straight trucks . You can see them mounted on frame rail like gas tank .
A truck repair place knows all about them , in my case it was an International dealer. Put it in snd it worked fine after third try . I always had misgivings about those , but trucks by the millions use them .
Hope this helps ,
J
Sent from my iPhone
On May 10, 2022, at 5:03 AM, 'CAROLL RIPLEY' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Mike:
In my entire experience, whenever the brake pedal slowly goes to the floor - after bleeding, etc, - it has always been a bad master cylinder. I don't know how old your m/c is or if it's been rebuilt, but if you can try another master cylinder. that may lead you to a resolution.
Also, the bleeding procedure you describe seems strange to me, but if the manual says to do it that way, then I guess that is OK. Generally, bleeding of the brake system always started with the farthest wheel cylinder (RR) and then the next farthest (LR. RF and finally LF). I do not understand why a 64 K should be different.
All the best,
Rip
On Monday, May 9, 2022, 02:21:46 PM EDT, 'Mike Cortel' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
The bleeding was being done manually with my wife at the pedal and followed the order based on the service manual posted below. I did consider getting a Power Bleeder but again got frustrated and just parked the car. Any recommendations for a power bleeder? Thanks for the reply
<1652120456795blob.jpg>
Mike Cortel
On Monday, May 9, 2022, 01:20:57 PM EDT, dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Mike-
How are you bleeding? Manual with a friend on the pedal? Gravity? Power bleeder?
You have two circuits and need to rule out which one is the problem. I believe air is the problem and you want to know if its in the master or slave circuit.
Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: "'Mike Cortel' via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 9, 2022 12:47pm
To: "chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} 300K Ram Brake ProblemsHi to all
A little background. Approx 2 years ago I was having leakage at the master cylinder and the brakes felt weak. I figured it was time for a rebuild. I removed both the master cylinder, the remote brake booster, and the slave cylinder and took them to Power Brake Exchange in Pittsburgh for rebuilding. They did find a broken spring in the remote booster and were able to replace it as well as the additional seals and such. They provided a test report and it showed the booster providing 300 psi? (I can not find the paperwork at this time but I believe that was the number.) I got everything back home and got back together. I also replaced the front wheel cylinders, shoes, and front hoses. Also, replace the vacuum line from the intake to the booster with the correct type of hose. I followed the service manual for the bleeding order of the system more than once.
Here is the problem. I have brakes when the car first starts up. But after a couple of stops, the brake pedal starts bottoming out and the brakes do not hold. I was so frustrated and fed up that I just put the car away.
In the meantime, I have become a cancer patient and I would really like to get this fixed and possibly enjoy the car this spring/ summer while I can.
I have considered taking the car to the local Chrysler dealer whose ownership is into Mopar Muscle as I am not sure how much I can still do.
Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated as well as any shops in Ohio that may be able to work on this.
Thanks in advance
Mike Cortel
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