Fwd: {Chrysler 300} ‘62 300 Charging

Usually brushes get worn out . Inspect them, you can buy brush kit for correct year . .

If you test— be careful , any accidental grounding of F wire will pop regulator .

Assuming one wire alternator , remove wire from the alternator at F , run engine —briefly jump that alternator terminal to 12 v (battery + ) the ammeter should go to charge . If it does alternator is ok .
If ok and wires are intact especially not broken at regulator crimps , has to be regulator . Any short time ground on the F wire anywhere along it will blow regulator . There is sort of a thin fuse wire inside regulator to protect harness . Other terminal ( not the one going to F) on regulator should show 12 v with ign on. Big terminal / wire on alternator is hot all the time .

Stay away from electronic replacements . Chinese junk . Rock auto has good original style . The swinging needle occasionally is normal stuff with mechanical .

You can replace one wire alternator with the later more common one with two F terminals by grounding the other terminal with a jumper to a screw on alternator frame . Then use original stock regulator .

The two wire one is designed to work with later mopar electronic regulator , but will work fine with stock mechanical one hooked up like this . You cannot use the later regulator without some rewiring . And it looks wrong .

John G

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 10, 2022, at 1:30 AM, 'Matt Allyn' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Ammeter gauge not hitting the charge side of life, when RPM’s are raised.

What is the test, with a multi meter, to determine if it’s the Alternator OR the Regulator.

Matt Allyn
(562) 533-2551

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