Here’s the link for manifold repair: http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of toz@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2022 7:56 AM
To: Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>; John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; mr396@xxxxxxx; 93saturnfan <93saturnfan@xxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} F Manifold - JB Weld I had my manifold repaired by Lock-n-Stitch back in 2008. It’s held up great. More than just the ear was broken on mine.
Scott Tozzi On Aug 11, 2022, 6:34 AM -0700, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, wrote:
They make exhaust repair “ muffler patch “ that is I think sodium silicate , same as wood stove gasket cement . That stuff can fill voids but is not a bonding agent or glue . Permatex makes a “ copper” based rtv that resists I think 600-700 F , it is used by header guys the same way you use rtv . They swear by it . They take them off there is a residue after use that still seals . The claim is head surface right there does not get that hot . So JB might survive . And so flange of manifold not too hot too . But further down manifold it does , why slant six ( and in my case Packard ) crack , especially if it has overtorqurd bolts by guy who knows it all . Manifold bolts are left at certain torque so manifold can slip against head as it gets real hot and cast iron expands sideways . Overvtightening guarantees this crack will happen on leg shaped type exhaust like slant six . Been there . And slant sux has slip washers , design is ok but rebuilt engine guy tightens bolts too much . All the first year packard six ( 1937) tended to do this . In ? 38-39 they dropped the two end bolts totally and used long studs and big washers so manifold could slide slightly by design against block ( flathead) . Very clever — the long studs can sort of “ wave “ sideways I think chrysler knew this on early hemi , the complexity of fine and coarse threads and even brass nuts on manifold to get precise just enough clamp . By the way copper gaskets let it slide , used on race hemi . I dont think made for B block . Chrysler Also experimented with no gasket I think and light clamp . And this is maybe where the permatex stuff might help . All this from school of hard knocks.. j
On Aug 10, 2022, at 11:10 PM, Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Though I would never recommend JB Weld for this particular task either, I have to say I was impressed by the stuff back in the 1980's on a different type of exhaust manifold repair. My Dad made the mistake of trying to get our Winnebago off the freeway one hot summer afternoon when we discovered we'd lost a fan belt on the 1976 Dodge 360. By the time he got it to rest and shut it down the engine was overheating badly. Replacing the belt took a few minutes once it cooled down but we discovered a large exhaust leak immediately. Upon removal of the manifold, we found the flange had actually warped quite dramatically on the centre ports and would no longer seal against the gasket. With the manifold off, Dad spread out what I recall being about 3/16" to fill the void and filed the mating surface flat as a temporary fix. It lasted more than 5 years and 10k miles before it burned out...... That was probably 35 years ago and epoxy technology has improved considerably since then.....just sayin'.
From: mr396@xxxxxxx <mr396@xxxxxxx>
Sent: August 10, 2022 6:28 PM
To: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: 93saturnfan <93saturnfan@xxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} F Manifold Agree also jb weld won't work I think better use crazy clue or duct tape should do the same barry On Wed, Aug 10, 2022 at 9:10 PM, dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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