Re: {Chrysler 300} 300 leopord

Almost every car I have has a coating of some sort, Cquartz/Geneteq/etc. I have local professionals do the prep and application and Iâ€™ve never had a problem since. I can wash my car with a gallon of water in a pinch and a little rinse less wash. If it rains, no issue.

On Aug 28, 2022, at 10:21 PM, RICK AND DEBBIE CLAPHAM <rixpac@xxxxxxx> wrote:

About a month ago, while dining at the clubhouse the sprinkler system showered our car with secondary water and the temperature was 100F. our paint and even our windshield and left side glass were covered in calcium spots. Deb, my spouse mixed vinegar and distilled water and we cleaned the spots from everything, rinsed off the entire mess with softened water and it actually worked. Lightly spray polished with Adams polish, hand wiped using micro fiber towels and showed during our regional airport/car show the following Saturday.

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From: Ron Waters
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2022 7:19 PM
To: 'Chrysler 300 Club International'
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} 300 leopord

Last fall, I taught myself how to professionally buff paint. The 20-year-old paint on one of my show cars was not looking as shiny as I remember it.

I started out by watching Chemical Guys videos on YouTube and on their website. Once I got a feel for how to professionally polish paint, it was off to the races. I bought a Torx 10FX D/A buffer, which they recommended for beginners. It was lightweight: 5.5 pounds.

The process is as follows: Start out by claying the entire car. This is used for 'exfoliating' the paint.Then I moved on to using Meguiars 105 on the Orange pad. Once I was happy with the results, it was on to Meguiars 205 with the White pad. Finally, I sealed the paint with Chemical Guys Jet Seal. Note: This is a simplified version of what is involved.

To practice, I found a 58 Plymouth fender in my garage that was painted black probably in the late 60s. The paint was chalky and had no shine left. I have no idea, but assume it was painted with cheap enamel. Following the process I outlined above, I buffed the fender to a beautiful shine. I just did a section so I could compare the 'before' and 'after'.

Now that I had some flight time under my belt, I went to work on my collector car. It came out gorgeous. I had no problems with rain spotting after driving through torrential rain a few weeks ago. I recommend folks learn this process. The results are far superior to what you can achieve using the commerical waxes available at most auto parts stores.

Ron

-----Original Message-----

From: "'Drew Carl' via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2022 9:57am
To: "'Bob Merritt'" <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "'Chrysler list server'" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} 300 leopord

Leading up to Iola I spent 3 days and put about 12 coats of orbital buffing and then waxing on my Uncles 62. A few weeks ago I went to a local show and a rain storm came in quick for about 20 minutes and then immediately after the sun was blaring again. Thinking I was smart I took a walk and waited 45 minutes for the roads to dry back up and then went home. With all the waxing I had figured I was in great shape. When I got home I found the entire car had terrible water spots. It gave it a wash hoping they would come off but I donâ€™t think it helped at all. Does anyone have any advice other than re polishing this out? My final coat of was was F11 and I am now concerned that was a mistake.

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