’62 Sport 413 single 4bbl is the same engine as found in New Yorker and Imperial, with mild cam. On those engines I have also used the NGK racing plugs without fouling or detonation on 91 octane non-ethanol, stock timing, quick advance curve Mopar Performance electronic distributor, but not sure that that engine actually needs that cold a plug. However, those engines can easily detonate with too hot a plug – such as Champion J14YC – no good, rule of thumb is to use coldest plug that doesn’t foul, and the NGK V-tip helps. 1963 Sport 413, or K non-ram and L, use the F/G cam, higher performance, dual point distributor etc. I would use the colder racing plugs on those if you have detonation. Carl B. I would be interested in opinions on a plug for a non letter 413 like in my 62 sport. I did wires on it before Hershey because they were well past due and to get the correct date coded proper wires, but I was out of time and unsure of what plugs to go with. From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Carl
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2022 12:22 PM
To: Nick Taylor
Cc: chrysler 300 club
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Spark Plugs in 413. Use of a colder plug (and I meant colder, not hotter, in my first message) should be beneficial in F/G, although I can’t speak from recent experience on F/G since I haven’t driven one of those for the last 35 years. But for J and RamK, absolutely a cold plug is needed. J when new specified a Champion J9Y plug which was few ranges colder than a standard New Yorker/Imperial 413 plug. Detonation was a customer complaint from J owners, hence a mid-year tech bulletin recommending reducing initial timing from 15 degrees BTDC to 12.5 BTDC. A workaround not a solution. Remember that there are many factors that affect detonation: octane, plugs, operating temperature, ignition advance, carb mixture, etc. – too many variables. My J is does not have a stock cam (I think it has a Mopar purple shaft, was converted to hydraulic by PO), heads or distributor at this point so maybe not the best example. But that said, it ran like crap on Champions and detonated, no problem with NGK, with everything in proper tune. I have initial timing at approx.. 14 degrees BTDC, where it should be imho, curb idle set quite high (about 900 rpm – likes it best there), hit the throttle and watch your toupee fly into the back seat, only problem is any more than fairly light throttle from a standing start the rear tires will light up – maybe a good problem to have lol. Carl B. I've been using Autolite 85 plugs in my cars but I do have a bit of detonation in my 300F in some situations. Maybe I should try one of these alternatives. You can also use NGK racing plugs, even though NGK does not list them for our cars. I have used NGK 2891 (R56707) in my J for the last 10 years or so with great results. No detonation, no fouling, even with lots of distributor advance. Remember that today’s gas is not the same as it was 60 years ago, and using a hotter plug might be beneficial. I thought we had a web page on this topic, but can’t find it now; so maybe not. Back in 2011, Tony Rinaldi sent out a great message on using the NGK racing plugs. Here is that thread, a long read but worth reading again or for newer members: Tony Rinaldi 7/28/11: Newer unleaded fuels burns hotter. Add ethanol and the fuels burn even
hotter.
What do we do with our high compression, high performance engines? They
burned hot with the gas they were designed to run on. They burn even hotter
with today's pump gas.
Short of using racing gas and octane additives, we use 93 octane, if we can
get it. And we retard the spark. This eliminates detonation, associated with
lower octane, that is destructive to the engine internal parts.
But when we retard the spark to avoid pre-ignition, we further increase the
heat in the engine especially in the exhaust manifolds. The retarded timing
will allow the majority of the heat (Flame) to blow out of the exhaust
instead of keeping it in the cylinder to produce power.
Too hot of a heat range of the plugs, usually recommended for our engines,
indirectly leads to a runaway pre-ignition condition that can increase
engine temperature. We then have to retard the spark even further creating
more heat in the exhaust manifolds.
Heat from the combustion chamber escapes through the exhaust gases and the
side walls of the cylinders.
Ever wonder why we repeatedly have exhaust manifold leaks or we have boiling
gas in the bottom of our exhaust heated crossram carbs on really hot days?
We are generally limited in the availability and selection of spark plugs.
This means that we are using plugs with heat ranges that were good for
1960's gas not today's gas.
Not sure how well this subject has been covered in the past, but my race
mechanic shared some of the work around techniques that the NASCAR people
are using to deal with the elimination of leaded fuels in recent years.
In hotter heat range plugs, the tips remain hotter between firings and start
acting as glow plugs. The cylinder mixture will tend to prematurely ignite.
The use of newer spark plugs with colder heat ranges is a good option to
help relieve low octane detonation. These plugs fire with the same intensity
but have more insulation. This dissipates the heat from the tips quicker
thus eliminating pre-ignition.
A heat range refers to how much heat a spark plug is capable of removing
from the combustion chamber.
NASCAR is so big, spark plug manufacturers listen to them and are
manufacturing colder heat ranges.
The more internal modifications that are done to make our engines more
powerful, the more heat the engines generate.
Domestic plug manufacturers use designations where the higher numbers are
hotter heat ranges and the lower numbers are cooler.
NGK numbers are the opposite. 2 is the hottest and 12 is coldest heat range.
The NGK R5670-6 V-Power Plugs (NGK Stock #2746) for Big Block 413-426-440
(Raised Deck) with iron heads or Standard NGK Plugs XR5 (#3339) are close to
the heat range of an Autolite 85 which is the replacement plug for the
original A32 for wedge crossram engines. There are no heat range choices for
the Standard NGK XR5 plugs. The R5670 V-Power series of racing plugs do have
colder ranges however.
The rule of thumb is to use the coldest heat range plug that you can run
without fouling. NGK V-Power plugs are known for not Fouling readily
especially with the projected tips on the R5670s. Reference the following
quotes below about NGK V-Power plugs:
"These NGK V-Power spark plugs offer economical performance for nearly any
automotive application, and are the only plugs with NGK's V-Groove
technology. They enhance ignitability, lower the voltage requirement of
ignition systems, and have strong anti-fouling characteristics, while
improving fuel mileage and acceleration performance. The V-Power plugs also
are highly durable against electrical and chemical wear, making them a
long-life replacement plug. Because of the V-Groove, the spark occurs at the
edge of the center electrode. So heat is not absorbed by the electrode
itself. This allows the flame kernel to expand quickly and efficiently for a
complete burn and great performance." strokerengine.com
"NGK's V-grooved center electrode moves the spark to the outer edge of the
electrode for improved ignitability in all combustion chamber conditions.
This configuration is especially helpful for throttle responsiveness,
quicker corner exits, and more power on the bottom end in a drag race
engine. The high-purity alumina silicates used in the insulators of NGK
Spark Plugs helps keep the spark plug tip warm enough to burn off deposits
at low-speed, yet still be able to transfer enough heat during high-speed
operation to prevent detonation and pre-ignition.: NGK
"I have two cars with 440 engines and one car with a 360. Both 440 engines
were rebuilt and placed into service with Champion plugs in them. Both
engines fouled atleast one plug before they even had a hundred miles on
them. At the advice of a friend that owns a parts store, I went to NGK
V-Power plugs. No more fouled plugs. And my 360 that I rebuilt 6000 miles
ago also has the NGK V-Power plugs and hasn't fouled any." Mopar Enthusiast
Check your exhaust manifold temperature before with your existing plugs once
the engine is at operating temperature after a good run. You may want to
check and record other areas of the engine as well as take note of the
temperature gauge.
Harbor Freight sells a laser heat gun for about $20.
A good plug to consider starting with is one that is 2 heat ranges colder
than you are running now. NGK R5670-8 (#3354) V-Power plugs should do it.
About $20 for 8. They come in packs of 4. Then advance the timing.
If your engine has been rebuilt with lower compression, consider trying the
NGK R5670-7 (#2891) (one heat range cooler) to make up for the lower octane
unleaded fuel. Then advance the timing.
If you only can get fuel that is lower than 93 octane, add one more heat
range cooler than recommended above.
After you have installed your cooler plugs and advanced the timing
appropriately, check the exhaust manifold temperature in the same spot, as
well as your other reference points, once the engine is at operating temperature after a good run. Carl Bilter 300J I also have XR5 in my 300F. However, If you check with NGK, they cross reference the "standard" 413 motors to XR4 plugs (one heat range hotter). For how most of the cars are used today, this plug should be fine, and still provide plenty of "heat range" for some hard running. In the day, Chrysler expected the "letter cars" to be used considerably harder than the standard models,and spark plugs had much narrower heat ranges. In over 30 years of dyno testing, I have learned two important things, most people run too cold a spark plug, and engines need less fuel than you think. --
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