{Chrysler 300} Re: electric choke on rams

John:

Thank you for the kind words. I also knew that other conversion kits from various vendors would probably work, but Edelbrock was easy, had all the pieces I needed and Amazon shipping was free and very quick, so I spent the extra money and went with them. The Edelbrock also has a plastic cover over the "pin". I expect that all these pieces are made by one source for everybody.

You keep the original diecast choke mechanism (don't need to remove from the carburetor), only take the new vacuum piston assembly and fit it to the original shaft in the original choke mechanism. As I mentioned, when you put the metal "plate' on before the gasket and black can, you probably need to grind off some "flashing" so the plate sets flat and seals vacuum with the gasket. Amazingly, Carter, knowing they didn't need this plate, didn't bother to finish the casting in that area. So far, I am totally pleased with the installation and how the car starts and runs. Right now I am set at 1 notch "rich" and both chokes open exactly at the same rate, so fast idle comes off smoothly. Very happy.

Dyke Ridgley

Ridgley Racing

5500 Walmsley Rd

Decatur, IL 62521

217-865-2300 p

217-865-2309 f

On Tue, May 2, 2023 at 5:19 PM John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Dyke — that was a great post .
Changing whole carb as some have done takes away a very good part of ram carb , the special idle air valve , which lets both carbs close fully —preventing possible linkage stop issues from interfering with two idle throttle stops etc on stock AFB .

I have an F I converted to manual choke like a J or max wedge , it was a bad mistake ( score a big one for the originality guys!) .

So now , seeing your post , I went right at keeping the factory carbs working as designed , like you did , — but fixing the erratic F thermal warmup choke ( why I had the manual ideas) .

But Edelbrock wants 95 for that kit . Ripoff .
So wrote to them trying to buy idle pull off piston , arm and that link with tab . Response “ only available in kit “ 2$ part if that . looked at soldering a new brass tab to old arm etc . I think it can be done .
But -

In process of doing this i find National Carbs in Jacksonville Fl on ebay They have a kit FFP-1478-ECK to do this 47.45 each . Hard to see what is in it on e bay pix , but decided to take a chance . 2 kits . Save 100 $
Came next day (!) , in this kit is a whole new die cast choke mechanism housing that attaches to carb by three screws , the 4 th hole is a vacuum passage — they arranged an o ring recess in new piece right there to seal vacuum feed .

Already in it is a new piston arm and link with a round pin sticking out to engage the heater coil that is covered in a slippery plastic . Better than carter or edelbrock . no sticking nice and smooth action . Smart .
heater Coil itself is very well
made . Impressive . new black cover too , might work modified somewhat on other heat choke designs , like air draw , / vacuum which is still functional with this electric . Not done right —you can cause a vacuum leak (I learned stuff from all this ) . Black plastic can is under full manifold vacuum , — always wondered why a gasket there . Now we know .
I have not put in the car yet , assumption being if Edelbrock fit , as you describe this does too .
Big step ahead I think , throw away exhaust heat riser valve , restriction it causes , and associated hassles like a melted ram bottom ( happened to me .. they rust stuck shut ) and both sides coming off choke at different rates . = Stalling
thank you Dyke !
john g

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