Re: {Chrysler 300} RE: splice point 300K window power feed

Hey , Ron , come on !!! Duct tape ? arrgh

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 5, 2023, at 12:05 AM, Ray Jones <1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

You should find in any good Auto parts store, Rubber grommets. Or in an old lumber or hardware store.
Look for those stacks of drawers with small items in them, Grommets of all sizes, to fit any hole are available.
Cut through the grommet and work around the harness and into the hole.

Ray Jones

On Tue, Jul 4, 2023 at 6:44 PM John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi ,
that failure of a wire crossing into the inner spaces of our body sheet metal over a sharp punched factory edge has taken out an F harness and a G harness in my personal experience .. the whole harness in that case.. all of it- !
as the heavy feed wire to the breakers located in drivers kick panel is unfused battery power .Large wire 10 or 12 of course it is the one all by itself that matters and shorts out ! Twice in two different cars Harness melts under dash and out to starter relay a fused together mess.
This is really a major design fault , in all our cars . And restorers sometimes do not position the few added factory sleeves ( in the case of these F and G ) on the wire correctly so as to protect the vinyl wire covering , at the sharp place , but they slide down the wire . They also crumble , not good stuff .
All that aside , when restoring our cars , anyplace you see a wire or bundle passing in or out of a body cavity , put a piece of that convoluted plastic tubing with a slit down the side ( see Waytek web site for good stuff , high temp has blue or grey stripe on it )-/ or ebay for low price and ok when not under hood .) You need 1/2 / 3/8 and 3/4 . cheap .
The very sharp edge will over time due to vibration cut into the vinyl wire , soon a dead short .Use real scotch 33 tape to hold in place . Other “ electrical tape” is junk turns into gummy mess .
You don’t need added fuses , the breaker works , for all the wires ( or car would have burned ) but the cure really is to protect any wire crossing a sharp edge into body cavity . Power seat feed has this issue too .
Another cure but not preventative is a fusible link from Ford cars at the main car power take off connection to battery at start relay .
There are two sizes of those use larger one, just in case a major wire shorts , especially ammeter area .
Good thing you found this …
.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 4, 2023, at 3:14 PM, 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi Ron,

I sent a follow up response, and it went into a black hole…

I pulled the kick panel and found a set of fried wires. I also noted the base of the wire going into the door light switch was a melted mess, but it was still working as was all but one of the other three windows.

The breaker is there and is working but it is upstream. It probably tripped until the wire melted. I also probably had a small voltage drain as well.

The wires run from the breaker out to each of the individual switches other than the drivers master switch. The melt down happened between the three wires and the steel webbing in the kick panel. An abrasion failure?

I will have to splice in some new wire. Perhaps I will splice in three inline fuses.

James

From: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, July 4, 2023 11:59
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} RE: splice point 300K window power feed

James –

While I can’t speak for a 64 Chrysler, I know that on my 55 (Desoto) and 59 (Dodge), both power window cars, there are circuit breakers behind the kick panel to prevent a shorted wire from turning into something more serious. Did someone remove or bypass those on your car ? What does the power window schematic show ?

Ron

From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2023 2:46 PM
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} RE: splice point 300K window power feed

Well,

I found the problem quick. As soon as I removed the left kick panel. I could see burned fiberglass.

It looks like the door switch shorted out and the three wires to the rear for the local window switches fried. Or it may be that the three wires to the local window switches fried, and the metal got so hot that the wire to the door switch melted and grounded.

In any event, I may consider splicing these wires with some in-line fuses and replacing the door jam switch with a new one.

I do wonder if this was a mechanical abrasion issue, a door jam issue or a wire overload issue. Perhaps I should put in a new 30 am breaker or change it to a fuse…

In any event a fun mess.

James

From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, July 3, 2023 21:23
To: Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} splice point 300K window power feed

Anyone know off hand the location of the W-2, W-3, W-4 splice point on the window lifts?

My driver’s side rear switch will not work at the window. The master at the driver’s door works fine. I checked the switch, and it is fine. The center feed to the switch is dead.

That wire on the schematic looks like a factory furnace splice someplace. It is after the circuit breaker. Before I go hunting for it, I am hoping someone can tell me where it is to save me some time. It is also possible that all three of the wires are ring terminals onto the circuit breaker, but I have not gone hunting yet.

All the other switches are fine. I am assuming a wire problem someplace.

Thanks, James

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<fired_wires.JPG>

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