Re: {Chrysler 300} Caution to all J/RamK owners or anyone using 63-64 he
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: {Chrysler 300} Caution to all J/RamK owners or anyone using 63-64 headers re. pos. battery cable



Carl - have you notified the other club of the fact that this can (will) happen.  Odds are they have more of these is use than our members

Pete Fitch


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

On Monday, August 28, 2023, 6:44 PM, Carl <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Yesterday I drove the J up to Mopars on the Mississippi in Dubuque, IA, and it ran and drove great – until – about 2 minutes from my destination, when suddenly and without warning, a terrible noise began emanating from the engine compartment.  Sounded like a really bad water pump, but temp. gauge good.  Noticed the ammeter pegged on charge – electrical malfunction – with no place to pull over I briskly made a mad dash to the show, pulled in and pulled over, shut the ignition off, removed the key – starter motor kept running! 

 

Fortunately, I had a ½” wrench in the console (ALWAYS carry one), popped the hood, removed the negative cable, assessed damage.  Nothing visible, but bad burned rubber smell.  Quickly determined it must be a stuck solenoid or bad starter relay (that turned out to be wrong).   Our buddy Noel came over with a spare starter relay, which I installed, no change.  Fortunately, local buddy and long-time member Dave Schwandt was able to come out with his 3500 Dually and his son’s trailer, and we loaded up the J and took it back to Cedar Rapids.

 

Diagnosis today – took all of 3 minutes – positive battery cable from the starter relay to the starter motor, insulation burned right through, battery cable and solenoid wire then shorted, starter engaged continuously.  This was a reproduction cable from the Inc. 300 Club, with no heat shielding.  When I installed the cable I purposely made sure it was a couple inches away from the header.  It ran near the heat pipe, but that wasn’t the issue.  Evidently, on a long run, the header gets so hot that it was enough to melt all the insulation.  I had heat wrap on the shift cable, as that had been damaged long ago due to running over the header, but didn’t wrap the repop battery cable. 

 

Lesson:  cable MUST be heat wrapped, or do NOT use the Inc. club repop cable  Note: Quirey now reproduces the proper cable I believe; Jamie can confirm.  The photo below shows the damage – see lower center of photo.  This cable is NOT sitting against the header, but it still burned.

 

Carl B.

Older and now wiser

 

 

 

 

 

--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/64ed2356.050a0220.9f88e.723bSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING%40gmr-mx.google.com.

--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/756954294.934752.1693266126289%40mail.yahoo.com.


Home Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network Archive Sitemap


Copyright © The Forward Look Network. All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated.