Hi .. something strange happened here as rust is only possible with glycol . Just the chemistry . not debating the story , but it was not silicone fluid that caused this .
Some kind of mistake in labeling or whatever as water is immiscable in silicone . It’s not possible . Or lines had incompatible fluid in them . I do not know , I don’t doubt story
The military has it in every single vehicle they own , often stored 25 years . They have to work for sure the day pulled out . I have it in 25 cars zero issues other than very hard to get bled right
Yes you can use glycol and drain every 3 years . I did not follow that on mercedes due to negligence on my part it cost me 3000 in brake replacement parts and service — ABS etc which is incompatible with silicone fluid .
But over all my 300’s , over many years I’d say 85 % had a big rust pit on the bottom of the wheel cylinder due to water carried there by glycol . It is designed to hold water until saturated , and that water should come out when you drain it regularly .
But people NEVER did that on 300 , as the 85% shows . It comes out of saturation in a cold day at the bottom of the wheel cylinder
What happens is it was ok anyway at a long ago rebuild — when you rebuild brake shoes ( depends on wear ) you push pistons in more it seals ok , but as pistons move out with wear of shoe or worst of all a panic stop , one day you uncover the rust pit at the seal lip and all your brake fluid gushes out . It is at 1000 psi
Some of us think they know more than the military , while i think that may be true in many areas , it is not true here
I think the only reason it is not standard fare is very high relative cost especially way back then . And difficult bleeding .
Your mileage may vary , but your glycol will always absorb moisture at master and carry it to wheel cylinders over many years .
Rust pit shows you that , you have all seen it ….
jg
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 6, 2023, at 12:14 AM, Larry Wood <larryjw7@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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